

il ! 



ill 




:Jil 

liiil 






;iiti'LLiUiiajiiiii.£:i^iiLiULiL! 












^ * 8 I A 






i^- ■%. -■ 



-13=1 "J. < 



/>' 









oo^ 



%^:^' v^ 



-3- 






^^ * '' s " ' x^-- , . „ "^ 









■(W-t 



.x^>' 









V '^ 



id 





■" 




■^ 


'*;^^-V 




J 


^ 0/ '"^ 




''^ ^ 


"-5 Jf". - "^<^ 


.^^ / 






;, ;!';:>^^^ 


^ 


.Jf '^ 


^'%v 


^ " . ^^o 


^^ 


-^\> 


. , ■'^- ■ 


- 








' " ^ 9^ 









• 0^ ^ ^ 




.^^^'^y,. 



\ 






\ ^- \ r--. 









\\\^' "'■^ 



V 



.' ^<^ -V 



cCi <;> 



c^ 









■^.s 



r "-> 



.^ ^^^/, -e. 






TAYLORS' INSTRUCTOR, 



COMPREHENSIVE ANALYSIS, 



iIlements of cutting garments, 

EVERT KIND. :^^ -"f^'TT^ ^^ 



To which are added, 

Directions for cutting various Articles of Dress, for, 
BOTH Sexes, without the usual Seams, and Regi- 
laewtals of all descriptions ; with instruc- 
tions for making up work with 
Accuracy and Precision. 

ILLUSTRATED 
jriTH MIGHT APPROPRIATE ENGRAVINGS. 



BY JAMES QUEEN & WILLIAM LAPSLEY, 



PHILADELPHIA : 
PRINTED FOR, AND SOLD BY, THE AUTHORS, 

Na. 52, SOUTH THIRD STREET. 
1809. 






6^' 



DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA—TO WIT. 

|l. s.; 

BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the twentieth day of Sep- 
tember, in the thirty fourth year of the Independence of the 
United States of America, A. D. 1809, JAMES QUEEN 
and WILLIAM LAPSLEY, of the said district, have deposit- 
, ed in this office, the title of a booii, the right whereof they 
claim as proprietors, in the words following, to wit : — " The 
Taylor's Instructor, or a comprehensive analysis of Cut- 
ting Garments of every kind ; to which are added, directions 
for Cutting various articles of Dress for both sexes, without 
the usual seams, and Regimentals of all descriptions : with in- 
structions for making up work with accuracy and precision. Illus- 
trated with eight appropriate Engravings. By James Queen 
and William Lapsley." 

In conformity to the Act of Congress of the United States, 
intituled, " An Act for the encouragement of learning, by se- 
curing the copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the authors 
and proprietors of such copies during the tiinestherein mention- 
ed." And also to the act, entituled " an act supplementary to 
an act, entituled, " an act for the encouragement of learning, 
by securing the copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the 
authors and proprietors of such copies during the time therein 
mentioned," and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of 
designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints.'* 

D. CALDWELL, 

ClerK of the district of Pennsylvania. 



-. / 



orfl 



DEDICATION 

TO the Master TATLORS, Journeymen and Ap^ 
PRENTICES, and the whole Body Corporate of the 
Trade in the United States. 

THE following work will no doubt, produce in 
your minds a degree of curiosity, as it is the first of the 
kind that has made its appearance in the United States, 
and we believe the second ever known in the English 
Language. The first was published in London, in the 
year 1796, and received the liberal patronage of the 
Trade in general, not only for its noveltyj but for the 
interesting and useful instructions contained therein. 
The one following was more judiciously executed, be- 
ing an improvement on the first, and exhibited one of 
the briefest compends of instruction, both in cut- 
ting and making up work of different kinds ; so 
that from the Master Taylor, down to the youngest 
apprentice it proved interesting and useful. 

We propose to follow the London copy in its most 
prominent features, comprising what is really beneficial, 
in the present state of improvement at which the tradp 



DEDICATION. 

has arrived. We sincerely wish we may be found clear 
in our communications in detail, as we are conscious 
of the motives which have induced us to dedicate a few 
leisure hours to oblige our fellow labourers in the pro- 
fession. It has been our great aim to lead the ignorant 
and unexperienced, whose want of practice, as well as 
opportunity, could never enable them to compass the 
merits of the business. 

That we have strictly adhered to this, every one will 
find, who will take the trouble to revise our labours, 
and study the maxims we have laid down. It is our 
sincere wish that the trade may be enlightened, and 
human nature receive its proper embellishment, by the 
improvement of graceful dress, and complete fitting. 
We sincerely hope we have given satisfaction, under 
which grateful sense, we humbly dedicate our endeav- 
ours to the trade, and mankind in general, wishing to 
be permitted to subscribe ourselves. 

Gentlemen, 

Your humble Servants, 

THE AUTHORS. 



PREFACE, 



IT is impoffible for us to conjecture, how critics 
and judges of literature may receive this work, as this 
is only the second piece of its kind that has made its 
appearance in print, and being but fuperficial judges of 
logical difquilitions and other embellifhments of diction, 
we Ihall beg leave humbly to Ihield ourselves under the 
motive of good intent. Our chief bufiness in this un- 
dertaking is to improve the Trade, remove the ob- 
ftacles that may impede its progrefs, and eftablish a cri- 
terion to avoid error, and leave a lafling monitor to all 
fucceeding generations. 

It has been by the dint of great application and 
much practice that we have arrived at fo much know- 
ledge in the bufinefs, which we mean to define to the 
Trade in the following fheets ; that as every eifect has 
its primeval cause, we fhall point out fuch certain rules, 
which, if properly attended to, will prevent error in the 
application, and the learner will undoubtedly gain 
credit by fitting his cufiomers well. It has long been 
the disgrace of the Taylors in America, a country which 



vi PREFACE. 

courts and invites all mechanics to come and partake 
of the blellings fhe beftows ; where the Arts and Sci- 
ences are fo liberally encouraged, and the only picture 
of freedom dwells ; that they have been fo fparing in 
this particular, when formed into Societies. Seeing 
how other Trades are diffuling and promulgating their 
knowledge to the riling generations, that Clothing the 
human body, Ihould remain a fecret as to certainty, we 
are lost in aftonilhment, and indeed, when we difcern 
the many figures ot cutting on gentlemen's backs, as we 
pafs along the Streets, it appears evident by the dif- 
tortion and Cutting of the Garments, that the whole is 
erroneous and entirely without defign. There are 
many who work by patterns, and this method of working, 
we are afraid, is too much followed by the Trade. There 
is one maxim with us, working by lengths and fol- 
lowing nature in every existing circumftance. In which 
cafe, patterns can be of but little ufe to any but Slop 
makers, where they may have them from the fmallefl: 
iizeto the largest Figure, upon proportionable fcales. 
But where Nature has fported a little with the forma- 
tion of a figure, a perfon would look quite aukward 
in one of thofe flop made coats. 

To arrive at certainty, is the perfection of Art, 
which we hope clearly to elucidate to the fatisfaction 
of the Trade ; therefore, we truft, no practitioner will 
think his time and labours loft by endeavouring to 
acquire a knowledge of the principles and maxims in 



PREFACE. vH 

the following fheets; for there is no lituation more 
aukward than that of a Taylor, who has cut and 
mutilated his own or his employer's Cloth, which 
will frequently be the cafe when a man has nothing to 
depend upon but the poor refource of chance or hope, 
that his Clothes will fit ; much depends on practice, 
although you have now the theory before you, which 
we (hall clearly detail in every particular circum- 
ilance. 



THE 



TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 



1^ ' < i .i)yi 



INTRODUCTION. 



ONE of the firft things to be acquired, in ordef 
to the improvement of arts, and the enlarging of our 
ideas, is for a time to ftep out of the beaten way of 
common practice ; and by a prudent referve and charit- 
able modefly, make fuch ftrid and judicious enquiries 
into the matter you would invelVigate, before you make 
any anti-couclufions to the theme in queftion. We are 
not unapprifed of the objections which may be made 
to the bold aflertion of arriving at the Ne plus ultra-y in 
any art. 

Science is the knowledge of things, with their caufes 
and the way to arrive at it, is by confequence and de- 
duction. We muft confefs, our best knowledge is 
fometimes imperfecl and fallacious ; after all our con- 
fidence, it is poflible, things may be otherwife. This 
muft be the cafe, when demonftrations are raifed from 
falfe principles ; but when genuine effects, produced 
by natural rudiments, and proportionate fyftems appear 
from efficient caufes, and when the object is within the 
B 



10 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

boundaries of our own intellects, we must pronounce the 
axiom incontrovertible. Upon these principles, we 
build our fuperftructure — these are the criteria of 
our propofitions ; and we hope the trade will affent to 
them as foon as they compafs their meaning, and con- 
clude the fyftem true. The poiitive alTertions of hy- 
pothefes, we own, may be alledged to be full of difficul- 
ty and doubt, efpecially in fo abftrufe and complex an 
Art, as the variegated maxims of cutting clothes, when 
the leafl: error of appropriating or uniting the mod trif- 
ling fepparation of any of the parts, would overturn the 
boafted fystem ; this we may admit ; but this could 
not happen where the practice is coincident with the 
theory ; and both unite todifplay their reasonable ef- 
forts together. It is enough for us, in our theory, to 
know, that we polTefs fuch principles of Art, fanction- 
ed by long experience; which we hope clearly to de- 
fine, both by precept and example, and which the 
trade muft affent to, when there is not the moft diftant 
fhadow of occafion to doubt the truth of either. 

We hope our maxims will be universal ; that every 
one may know and practice them, if they will give 
themfelves time for application, and move modeftly on 
till they arrive at the beautiful Temple of certainty, 
where their bufinefs will be concurred, as foon as 
premifed, and executed with pleafure, eafe, and fat- 
isfaction. Not fubject to the opinions, whims, fan- 
cies, and foolifli humours of miftaken men ; but 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 11 

certainty all the world over avowed by politive conclu-- 
iion, clearly and diftinctly perceived by every artift in 
the trade, and that they are pre-eminently eftablished. 
If we may not be thought too fanguine in the cause we 
have efpoused, we think we may fay with truth, that a 
treatife of this kind has long been wanted. Why no- 
body has explored the unbeaten path, to its full extent, 
we are at a lofs to fay, for certainly if it were ever 
known, the polTeflbr of the art fuffered the secret to die 
with him ; for nothing that we have feen has the leaft 
refemblance of that which we mean to impart to the 
trade. 

That all the world may be improved, and human 
nature receive its priftine grace and elegance, is the 
principal object of our ambition ; and by adminiftering 
to the general good, and conferring an obligation upon 
induftrious individuals, our. ultimate end will be ^n-^ 
fwered. 



r^, rffe T4YL0ICS iifsTRucToe. 



OF FASHION. 



WHEN the boundaries of an art are properly defin- 
ed, we proceed to improve and garnifh the fancy with 
every grace that is excellent in that art ; we conclude 
that faience is confirmed of the truth which enlivens 
the imagination. And we modeftly look for inci- 
dents to furnifh the mind with what is mofl: congenial 
to the fubject, for an embellifbment of Tajfey Fajhirji, 
and Elegance. In this the eye has its correfpondence 
with all that is neat and beautiful ; it acquires a kind 
of habitual nicety, and anfwers every genuine impref- 
lion which refults from occular demonftrations. The eye 
will foon difcriminate between the elegant Contour and 
drefs of a complete gentleman, and the extravagant 
whimfies of a City fop. Thefe arc great confiderations 
in the articles of drefs ; the former being the refult of 
grace, fenfibility, and refined experience ; the latter, 
the extravagance of folly, under the fanction of the 
whim of Fafhion. Yet we would have all our brothers 
of the trade to underftand us aright, in this great par- 
ticular ; although we may, in thefe (heets, have occa- 
fion to criminate the luxury of the whim, to Ihow what 



'fStfi fAYl^OR'S INSTRUCTOR. IS 

ist op'pefite te grace and elegance, we by no means dif- 
countenance the votaries of Falhion ; for we are well 
convinced of its ufe and benefits. The novelty of 
fafhion is the nurferypf trade, the propagator of the 
arts, find the field of employnnent to many. Our fancies 
are conftantly amufed by the brilliancy of every newly 
engendered improvement, and our minds become re- 
fpondent to every change. In this gradation, our un- 
derftandings are paflive, till we arrive at the verysumm.it 
ofex(efs, and having there regaled ourfelves upon the 
very top, and Apex of our fancies, we grow tired of the 
famenefs of the fcene, 'till the fluctuating goddefs 
takesaretrofpective view of the variegated fteps by which 
fhe afcended ; flie then modeftly returns to the medium 
from which we ftarted, nearly by the fame progreffion, 
and when we are feated there, and in polleflion of all the 
proportions of Symmetry that can give graceful effect to 
drapery, we are ftill unfatisfled ; the mind is not at eafe ; 
ftill fancy leads us by the fame meanders till we are fe- 
duced to the oppolit^ extreme^ 

Thus are the art^ encouraged, trade fupported, 
and mankind made happy by their induftry, and en- 
deavours for the benefit offociety and the general good. 
So much advantage does trade derive from fafhion ; 
but we must have the reader underftand, that though 
this fickle goddefs is fo beneficial and necelTary, fhe 
by no means holds an arbitrary flation in our Theory, 
for it is of but little confequence to a complete Taylor, 
what the fafhions are ; his buiinefs is to fit the body. 



14 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

fo that no conflriction or unnatural comprellion may 
be felt in any part ; that freedom without reftraint, 
and liberty without redundancy, may be the fource and 
theme of his practice. It matters not whether broad 
or narrow backs are the rage of falhion, ftand-up, or 
fall-down collars, fhort or long waifts, or whatever 
turn the cut of the Ikirts may take, the ultimate end is 
to cut and fit mtU ; taking care to harmonife the 
whim, by aflimilating the parts with prudence and 
care, having the following maxim in view, That the 
very pride of Elegance ^ is collective neatnejs. 

Never ftrive to hurry on excefles, let them move 
gradually as cuflom fanctions the prevalence ; and re- 
member thai all fafliions are graceful upon well 
turned figures; for obferve, when coats with broad 
backs, long (kirts, and heavy fleeves, are the /o;/, how 
prepoflerous it would be to go to the very extreme with 
a light fmall figure ; fuch a perfon, under fuch a cir- 
cumstance, mufi be almoft immerfed in cloth. On 
the other extreme, how truly ridiculous did a heavy 
athletic man look, a few years ago, with a back^to 
his coat not more than three inches broad, without 
front or fkirt to cover his body or breech. So much 
we mean as a hint to the learner, that he may devife 
a happy medium on every occafion, and never exceed 
the dictates of reafon. 

If your employer (hould be an over-ftrenuous advo- 
cate for the reigning fafliion of the times, endeavour 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR 15' 

to point out the happy medmm you would aim at, 
and fhow him what is repugnant to elegance and 
gracefulnefs ; if rational, it may perhaps excite him 
to moderation, which, when properly underftood, will 
reflect great credit, both upon your wifdom and his 
practice. 

Notwithstanding what we have urged here, as a 
bar to excefles, we muil allow that fafliion, in many 
cafes, is very captivating ; for things that are new, 
raife a kind of pleasure in the fancy, furprise as it were, 
the imagination, and gratify the curiofity with things 
it did not polTefs before. If it were not for the unliable 
iluctuationof falhions, people would be too familiar 
with one fet of objedls, and wearied out with the dull 
repetition of the fame thing. Therefore we muft al- 
low, whatever is new, or uncommon, adds to the 
pleafureable variety of human tafte. It ferves as a kind 
of refrelhment — yet we muft return to our former opin- 
ion, that nothing ftrikes fo forcibly upon the mind, as 
beauty and perfection. That is the feat of fatisfaction; 
when we once attain that, the imagination is at reft, 
and the faculties are in their meridian of enjoyment, 
beholding the picture of eafe, united with fimplicity 
in elegance and fplendor. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 



SECTION L 



CHAP. L 

DISSERTATION ON COATS. 



WE will commence our work by proceeding to 
fet forth the modes and maxims for moft effectually 
initiating and completing our ftudencs, in the principal 
part of their bufmefs, which is in the meafuring, cut- 
ting, and making of a coat. In this lays the energy of 
his purfuit, which, when once thoroughly poffelTed of, 
he may with great fatisfaction, congratulate himfelf 
-with the fentiment of being entirely at home. On the 
maftery of this great qualification, which has baffled the 
efforts of all preceeding generations, until the revolu- 
tion of Crowns, and new created fyftems moderanised 
our habits and dreffes, to the prefent mode. On the 
proficiency of this Scientific art, depends the elements 
of other arts ; for while human nature is dependant 
upon drefs, for the grace and embellifhment, which it 
beftows upon the well turned features ; the complete 
Taylor will always hold a ftate of pre-eminence in 



THE TAYLORS INSTRUCTOR. 17 

equipping and finilliing the exterior drefs of a fine 
Gentleman ; for nothing can be more convincing, or 
more fully illuiirate this hypothefis, than an obfervation 
of any of our plays, where the gentleman puts off his 
real character, by alTuming the garb of rufticity. This 
will in a great meafijre fhow the necellity of judgment 
in cutting, when the effect of elegance depends fo much 
upon the Taylor's Shears. 

We do not mean by this, to infringe upon the dif- 
tinguilhing duties of either the dancing or fencing 
mafter ; we wifh only to illuftrate our own particular 
walks; to fliow the merits of the art, and what attain- 
ments are requiiite to compafs the matter, for the im- 
provement of our fludents and the general good. 

By ftrictly following the dictates of our theory, we 
hope we fliall be able to give fuch formidable reafons as 
will prevent, in future, the necellity of one mafter 
Taylor's begging the affiftance of another to cut out his 
cloth. This, we believe to be a common practice in 
the trade, by feme men, who have been in the bufmefs^ 
and habit of cutting for many years. What a depravi- 
ty of genius, at an era Vv^hen every art is llriving with d 
vivid force for maftery ! 



IS THE TAYLOR'S INSTRVCTOR. 

The Taylor, whofe fprightly walk in life is to give 
o-race to drapery, fits down in the forlorn hope of ftrug- 
ling through, without ever enquiring farther than the 
maxims of his father, or what his mafter always did 
before him. Such poverty of genius has always inhab- 
ited the minds of the Taylors ; or they would never 
have continued fo long in fuch egregious errors ; which 
have been handed down from father to fon, or from 
mafter to apprentice, without application or enquiries. 
Like the bell-weather of a flork (if we may be allowed 
the expreflion,) running over a fence, and all the reft 
following after. 

It is a great truth, that many mafter Taylors have 
had clothes thrown upon their hands, to a considerable 
amount, befidcs what they may have difpofed of by 
alterations and mutilations to lefs figures, that have 
made choice of the fame faftiion and colours. 

Such circumftanccs as these muft ever happen, while 
people are content to remain in ignorance. To be un- 
informed may be the lot of many, whose inexperience 
has not furnifhed them with opportunities to compafs 
the matter in queftion. True genius is not the lot of 
every one, yet almoft every man is fufficiently enabled 
^by. application and perfeverance in certain rudi- 
ments to acquire fuch a knowledge in any common 
manufacturing bufincfs, as will clearly anfwer the 
practice of it. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 1$ 

Leave but the road of uncertainty, make one bold 
effort in the path of fcience, and by diligent and pro- 
greffive fteps, no doubt, you will reach the port pro- 
pofed, which is the lincere delireof the authors of thefe 
iheets. 



20 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOK. 



CHAP. II. 

How to measure a thin gentleman for a single breasted Coat. 

Plate I. Figure i, 2, 3, 4. 

PREVIOUS to our beginning this bufincfs, it may 
not be amifs to warn our ftudent of the great neceflity 
there is of his being very particular, in learning from 
his cuftomer the precife length he chufes to wear his 
coat, how nearly he would wi(h to conform with the 
ruling fafliion, and how much of the ruling fafliion he 
would wifh to imbibe, with other particulars refpecting 
buttons, pockets, &c. for it is notorious that many gar- 
ments havejaeen returned upon the Taylor's hands, by 
gentlemen, who even had left them to the Taylor's 
own tafte. The ideas of men are very different, 
efpecially in drcfs ; for what is agreeable to fome is 
difgufting to others ; therefore the fafeft and mod cer- 
tain mode of giving fatisfaction, is by a few quedions 
touching the above particular, and then proceed to 
meafure. • 

First, take the length from letter a at the top of the 
fhoulder of the back down to the waifl, in plate I, 
Fig. 2, and then continue it to the bottom of the fkirts 




y'////./,/;7'/-A"7.,.„'„.'^',„.,-/, A- Wr !.,irH'- 



THE TAYLOr^S INSTRUCTOR. -21 ■ 

for the length ; then from the back-feam, half acrofs 
the back from letter c to letter b next to the elbow at 
letter/^ and down to the hand, for the length of the 
fleeve ; afterwards around the arm at letter c ; then below 
the elbow at ^ ^ and around the hand^ if you think 
proper, obferve that the gentleman whom you meafure 
holds his arm level with the flioulder, for holding it too 
high would make the fleeve too long ; and too low, too 
fhort. Then meafure round the breafi: as high as pcf- 
iible ; next below at the belly, and alfo at the hip ; Lhen 
meafure from thefcye half acrofs the breaft, which will 
be as much as we conceive neceffary ; only with this 
remark, when you meafure for the length of the back, 
mind that you nicely hit upon that mode, that moil 
ftrikes your employer's fancy ; for by doing this, you 
will facilitate his wifhes, which may give a pleafing 
fanction to all the reft. 

Aftep- you have taken and marked all your meafures, 
be fure you keep them diftincl, that two alike may not 
clafh, in one place, and by a kind of confufion, frufi:r3,te 
your intentions. As for your manner of marking, ufe 
that method which is mod familiar to you ; and before 
you leave the gentleman, fet down his particular direc- 
tions in your order-book, that when you have cut, fm- 
ifhed, and fent the clothes home, fhould any diflike 



^2 THE TAYLOIVS INSTRUCTOR. 

arise, you can have recourfe to your minutes taken from 
your cuftomer's own mouth, which, if you havejuftly 
followed, will hold you blamelefs. A little caution of 
this kind, you will find, will prevent both anxiety and 
doubt, and will reflect praife on your prudence, apd in 
the end gain both credit and refpect. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 23 



CHAP. IIL 



Of the rules and maxims of cutting and completely making a 
Coat. 



AS we write for the inexperienced and uninformed, 
it may not be amifs for us to define, and lay down a 
certain rule, that may be a lafting ftandard for all fuch 
as are unacquainted with the real quantity of cloth, 
necelTary to make a coat ; take the following method. 

Measure, by your yard-flick, the length of your 
coat, as you have taken it from your measure, to which 
add the length of your fleeve ; thefe two, added togeth- 
er, will be the precife quantity requifite, and no lefs 
will do with any propriety. 

When the cloth is laid before you, do not omit hav- 
ing recourse to the plate of the analyfis of coats, and 
pay particular refpect to the feparated parts, the dif- 
ferent modes and turnings, that they effect, for until 
thefe are made fas it were) coincident with your own 
ideas, the maxims we lay down, we are fearful will on- 
ly ferve to confuse, without anfwering the great end we 



24 THE TAYLOIVH INSTRUCTOR. 

wifh to obtain, by our labours. After you have fuf- 
ficiently digelled the plates, and your cloth being laid 
before you, mark down the back feam as the plate di- 
rects, and ftrike the fliape of the back upon the cloth, 
having the fame proportions as the fmall fcale upon the 
plate ; and take care, that it anfvvers to your nieafure, 
in every part. Take a large back hollowing; for this 
\vill make your back-fliirts lap over well, and not part 
behind ; as is too often the case to the abufe of decency. 
Be a little particular, in the length of your back fcye ; 
fhould you make it long, fee that the fhouldcr feam 
be very high, and in order to prove that, when you 
lay your mealure from a to b on plate II, then move 
the mcafure from ^ to ^ on the flioulder, at the end 
of the meafure for the (houlder feam, afterwards flrike 
the mark of the back fcye at the end of the meafure, ac- 
cording to the plate, as lov/ as you perceive it necefla- 
ry ; but be particular informing the top of your back, 
and cut it narrower at the flioulder than at the bottom 
of the back fcye. 

Tuts maxim will make your Hecvc, when all is unit- 
ed and put together, come up Vvcll on the fhoulder, 
from which effect you wilf learn, that if your back is 
broad, your forepart mufl: be broad alfo ; in which cafe 
the fleeves cannot come up to the place they fhould be 
at ; for both the back and forepart will prevent it, but 
by cutting the back and forepart a little away and add- 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 2b 

ing fo much to the fleeve, you rnay command the ileeve- 
feam at the fhoulder top as much over the rounding of 
the bone as you pleafe ; but more of this hereafter. 

In order to finifli the back, down from the back fcyc 
to the hip, ftrike the back lide-feam as fmart and neat 
as you can, by infpection of the plate, and in the back 
feam be fure you do not begin to allow until you come 
to the appropriate place in plate I fig. 2, for fhould you 
do this, you vvill diforder the economy and fitting of 
the whole coat ; for by hollowing the back too much 
under the flioulder, you will force it to kick up and 
hang loofe at the hip, which is a very great error. To 
find the true length of the waift, it muft be cut from 
the back-flit (or what is called the tack over) longer, by 
three inches, than the fkirt. Another, and more cer- 
tain rule is, to make your waift of the fame length as 
your meafure from the middle of the back to the el- 
bow, if the fafhion fhould create a broader mode of 
making the backs at the hipj than at prefent, and our 
ftudent fhould not have confidered this, till practice 
has availed him of the niethods more prompt to his pur- 
pofe, let him mark out his more narrow back, that he 
has been ufed to with all its leading features, and add 
to the fide-feam as much as is required ;— but remem- 
ber, that whatever is added to the back, muft be taken 
from the forepart, and this will anfwer his purpofe. 



D 



2G THE TAYLOR' a INSTRUCTOR. 

Obferve well the cut and conlour of the plate, mind the 
prominency and round of the breaft ; for on this will 
depend the graceful appearance and elegance of the 
cut, which is fo requifite to difplay the beauty and per- 
fection of human nature. To make the forepart an- 
fwer to the back, lay it upon the forepart, and extend 
your meafure acrofs from letter d to letter dy and laying 
one half of your back to the extent of your meafure, 
mark the width of the forepart at the fide-fcam, with a 
proper allowance for outlet, and alfo leave room before for 
paring and making up the edge, with allowance for the 
projections at the end of the button holes ; then acrofs 
for the belly, and make it fomewhat lefs in proportion 
to the meafure, as fmartnefs and neatnefs may require, 
and mark your Ikirt agreeable to the plate, and the fame 
length as the back (kirt make the forepart fliirt. 

Notwithstanding we have faid fo much about the 
cutting, m.cafuring, and making of a coat, yet we 
have a it\Y mofi: effential points further to propound to 
our pupil, which he will find worth ferious confidera- 
tion, and relative to his purpofe, as they are the very 
leading features which fymmetry has prefcribed to 
facilitate and harmonife the whole. 

In the firft place, we mufl: inform him that however 
elTcntial every component part is to the unity of the 
thing intended, yet there are a few prevailing causes 
\"hich give energy to the theme, and which cannot be 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 27 

difpenfed with, if the coat is defigned to fit neat, be- 
caufe it muft be clever in every part. Obferve the foL 
lowing rule, that it is a maxim in our profeflion, that 
thetop of the coat commands the bottom ; for inftance, 
Ihould you want to find where the fquare muft be mark- 
ed, this muft be done by laying your meafure on a 
yardftick or any thing you have that is long enough, 
firft at the fhoulder point at n and at letter a at the hip, 
and carry it down the fkirt to the bottom ; and where 
it fails at the extreme end of the fkirt, there you muft 
mark your place for your fquare. 

When you plait up your coat, you muft mind that 
the forepart plaits^are exactly in the line from the top 
of the fhoulder to the hip. From hence we infer, that 
the fhoulder point always rules your fquare, and always 
will, let the rage ot fafhion be ever fo prepofterous. 
Notwithftanding any alteration, as long or fhort waifts, 
narrow or broad backs, this rule is ftilljuft, and cannot 
be difpenfed with, in any elegant coat whatever. The 
next real point, to complete the cutting, confifts in the 
fymmetry of the forepart, which is perfectly defcribed 
in plate I. fig. i, which leaves a juft proportion, and 
muft be the fame in proportion and fimilitude, when 
marked and cut upon your cloth ; and be fure that you 
note the following maxim ; that is, to lay a line from the 
hip to the fhoulder point, at the gorget ; we mean the 
point at a and at a at the hip; for be afTured, 



28 THE T AY LOWS INSTRUCTOR. 

that, if thcfe three leading points are not in a direct 
line, it will baffle your moll ftrenuous exertions ever to 
make the coat fit. This maxim we do affirm to be in- 
difpenfible ; and, though but little known by the trade, 
we give it as its choiceft criterion, and of much more 
value to our pupil than any rule in the whole branch 
of the bufinefs. After your forepart isfafhioned in the 
manner we have mentioned, and thofe other rules 
itrictly adhered to, you muft be careful that your back 
and forepart are both of the fame length, and in order 
to afcertain this matter truly, lay your back and fore- 
part together at the hip, and hold them faft, and alfo 
lay hold of the corner of the back at the top of the 
neck, or fhoulder feam, and try how high you can 
make it reach without ftraining, and then ftrike 
your flioulder acrofs for your forepart fhoulder feam ; 
that point of the back that is the fhoulder point at the 
gorge muft fall juft in the middle of the fhoulder feam. 
This will always be a judicious guide for all thin people. 
When the foreparts and backs are in this train, be af- 
fured, that the very power of diftortion is deflroyed, 
your practice being commenfurate with fymmetry ; and 
error is totally divefted of its power. 

Now, that we have taken fo much pains to fhow 
how effect is to be given to drapery, and the body 
graced by the influence of the forepart, we do not ef- 
tabliih this as an invariable rule to fuit the fancy of all .; 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 99 

fome ciiftomers, remarkable for gravity, would rather 
think this mode of cutting an imperfection, than a 
pleafing and ufeful maxim ; therefore allowance muft 
be made for circumftanccs, as well as the age, and 
avocation of different people. Clothes that would 
grace the firfl: officer of a regiment, would be very un- 
fuitable for the back of a porter. Obferve the requi- 
iites of fitting the body, and you may follow the whim 
and fport of fafhion to every extreme. The ornament 
of lapells, or other modes of making, will never im- 
pede the fystem of which we treat, if you only follow 
the dictates of our theory; for be aifured, that good 
fitting is the ornament of fafhion, and gives a moil 
graceful lullre to every thing attending it. 

With refpect to the fleeves, we muft ftill urge the 
neceflity of ftrictly attending to the cut and manner of 
the plate. Take care you do not hollow your fore- 
feam, otherwife than as we direct. Cut the fleeve all 
down the forefeam in the manner of fig. 4, plate I^ 
a little hollow from the top to the bend of the arm ; 
very full and nearely ftreight ; and then, from the hol- 
low down to the hand, according to the example of 
the letters in the plate ; full, and to fall off agreablyi 
this will prevent the cocking up, fo much complained 
of. Though this mode of practice may differ from your 
own, and create a furprife at the novelty of the method, 
you may reft aifured it is a paradox not more ftrange 
than true. 



30 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

In order more fully to demonftrate this matter to 
our learner, we would have him turn his thoughts 
to the patent fleeves, which are made without feams, 
cither before or behind ; and which are known to fit 
neater and much better than thofe that are made with 
the ufual feams. For further inftructions on this fub- 
ject, fee plate II, fig. 4. Have an eye to the men's 
fewing of the fleeve, which mult be held on from 
c to a, in order to form an elbow, obferve that they 
lock in the infide at the top four inches down, and take 
it in full an inch lefs than the outfide ; this maxim will 
compel it to fit the fcye, and not appear too full under 
the arm, as is done too frequently, by the generality 
of the trade. This has long been a mod egregious er- 
ror, and has efcaped the obfervation of many, whofe 
itudious application has given them great credit in this 
particular, as well as their brilliant efforts in many other 
parts of the bufincfs, towards the attainment of the mat- 
ter we are treating of, which has ever diftinguilhed 
them bv the neatnefs of their work. 




7'/n/,i,r^ J'„/,f 1,1, JitlOiif,',, K,- Ur'J.„/>s/,;,.j/),„) 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 31 



CHAP. IV. 



Of the making a Genilemmis Straighl Frock CoaL 



OUR previous obfervations, on the coat for a thin 
man, will anfwer every purpofe of the fubject in quef- 
tion, a frock coat will require an additional width to 
the back in that place upon the hips, between the but- 
tons, and likewife a little wider fkirt for the back. In 
cafes where perfons are long in the neck, to remedy 
this, add to the forepart beforey a full inch more than to 
another kind of coat, that it may button over the top 
button with much eafe, that no reftraint or conftruc- 
tion may in any wife impede the free extenfion of the 
arm. As to the difhculty refuiting from the flying off 
of the frock, we cannot be too particular in requiring 
our pupil to attend to the cut of the {houlder, which 
fhould not be thrown fo far back, by an inch and a half^ 
as in a plain coat. The forepart muft be cut as ftraight 
as poffible, and fquare acrofs at the bottom. With re- 
gard to the fleeves, collar, &c. proceed according to 
to our directions for a thin man. Take notice that, in 
cutting the forepart before, you do not cut it fliorter 
than behind; this is a terrible fault, and but too often 



32 THE TAYLOKH lySTRUCTOR. 

expofed to our light. In order to make a frock hang 
ftraight, you muft take from the fkirt at the bottom 
behind, three inches to make it Oiorter behind than be- 
fore ; this done, it will hang ftraight and level all 
round, to the fatisfaction of the wearer. 

When you clear out your fcye, you will rcmejnber 
that clearing it from the clofing fide feam, and 
round before, according to cuftom, is erroneous. This 
we have thoroughly proved from various examples in 
altering the miftakes of inexperienced Taylors. In 
our theory, clearing the fcye will be unneceflary if you 
adhere to the plates and the maxims treated of. If you 
cut by the rules laid down, and find an occafion to en- 
large your fcye, begin very near the fhoulder and clear 
it about half way round, and not under the arm, as is 
the common practice. Be careful in this particular, 
for any irregular cutting away before will totally dif- 
polfefs the coat of its other genuine merits ; for by cut- 
ting the fcye too forward you will force it into wrinkles 
under the arm. The more you wound the forepart, 
the larger the fcye will be, and of courfe the forepart 
will fly tothe flefh, the fleeve will force the forepart, 
and with the additional weight of the coat, it is drag- 
ged to fel clofe at the armholc, to the prejudice of eafe, 
and every convenience, and fometimes will chafe the 
ildn under the arm. In order to facilitate this nice 
piece of bufmcfs, and rectify any errors of this fort, 
fiifl: take in the fleeve behind, the infide only, leave the 
the outflde as large as it was before, only lock in the 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR, 3^ 

Tnfide to fit tfee fcye. By this mea,ns, your coa,t will 
receive a peculiar advantage, and give eafe and freedon> 
to the wearer, and in cafe a coat cannot be worn through 
lightnefs or conftriction in the fcye, let out the (boulder 
(for we hope you will alwgiys lay in there as well 
as at the fidefeam) as this is the place from whence relief 
muft be had ; you mull not let out the fide feam at the 
top, as is ufually done; this will only make it wider 
in the breaft, nor will letting out the fleeve and fide- 
feam anfwer any purpofe towards eafing the coat, with- 
out letting out the fhoulder alfo ; all cramped fcyes 
muft have eafe from the Ihoulder and fleeve ; for when 
the ftioulder is peculiarly fi.efhy and round, it demands 
extraordinary room. 

In thofe cafes, fome fay the fcye is too little under 
the arm, but this is wrong, for the caufe is before^ 
at the forefeam of the fleeve,2 ^"d round the top 
of the fhoulder ; in confequence of which it would be 
well to help the hand of inexperience by urging the ne- 
ceffity of laying in the ftioulder forepart where the 
grievance lies j for in any conftriction, letting out the 
fore arm, and giving room on the Ihoulder, will effcdt 
a radical cure. The reafon of our hint for laying in the 
fidefeam is to provide you with the means, on any oc- 
cafion, of making the coat wider upo.n the breaft, eithe;r 
from the fault of your own practice, or by rectifying the 
errors of others. 



34 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR 

If you would wifh to prove the prefcribed maxims 
by experience, make an effort upon your own coat. 
Take and bafte it at the fhouldcr about one inch double, 
on both fides, then put it on, and you will foon find the 
effect it has upon you, and how different from the fame 
quantity being bafted at the fidefeam. It requires much 
judgment to alter clothes well, that have been fpoiled 
in the cutting, and it is with regret we fpeak it, that 
too many of this defcription have come within the fcopc 
.of our practice. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 



CHAP. V, 



Of Great Coats. 



HAVING treated largely upon different kinds of 
coats, we hope, by this time, our ftudeht begins to pof- 
fefs the power of difcrifnination, and a few hints will 
now ferve to lead him, to the height of proficiency^ 
where he may have leifure to contem.plate the perplexi- 
ty of his purfuits, and with a grateful recollection of 
his own application, rejoice that perfeverance has at. 
length brought him to the fummit of all his wifhes. 

A great coat is the very exterior of all drefs, and, 
though it is only ufed againft the inclemency of the 
weather, has notwithflanding its merits as well as con- 
veniencies; for whatever merit your inner drefs may 
poffefs, if there be the leaft defect in the furtout, your 
whole body will be deformed ; therefore we fugged the 
following obfervations as a guide, to the pupil's genius 
and beg he may not flight the advice, as it is of more 
value than he may imagine i for we know that too many 
of the trade wantonly fport with the rules for making 
an outfide coat. In the firfi: place, we would advife. 
^hem to cut it full and large, to anfwer the intended 



J6 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

purpofe, the forepart muft be fomewhat larger in the 
llToulder than a ftrait coat, to facilitate its putting on ; 
the tleeve is to be cut three quarters of an inch wider 
in the double than a fmall coat : and alfo longer by an 
inch, andeaiierin every part by three quarters of an 
inch, both in the back, acrofs the fhoulder^ and in the 
width of the body. There is often a great error in not 
being cut long enough before ; this is chiefly owing to 
the cloth going ftraight acrofs at the bottom, and not 
taking off" three inches at the wheelpiece ; and begin 
cutting from that point to the front to nothing ; this 
method will make the coat hang neat and ftraight round 
the bottom. Cut the fhoulder tolerable ftraight, elfe 
the coat will fly off before ; for all great coats ftiould 
hang neat and ftraight down before, and with width to 
lap over, which is their intended purpofe, and the end 
i§ anfwered. 




J'/t//<i,/'' I'tit.-' /i' .T„U'itff'i Ji- l>T'Lafnlfii.i6o,). 



iPHE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. Zf. 



SECTION II. 



CHAP. VL 



theory of culting a Coat without Se^mSy &i 



THERE is not any garment in the whole fystcm that 
needs more diligent application than this one. Almofl: 
every other garment can be conliderably improved, if 
necelTary, by alteration ; but if the proportion of the 
parts of this coat be diforganifed, it deftroys the whole 
fymmetry of the garment, and leaves no room for amend- 
ment. This invention made its appearance in France, 
at the city of Paris, and met wath merited approba- 
tion, among the nobility, not only for its novelty, but 
for the mechanical fkill difplayed in its invention ; al- 
though the author did not bring it to the perfection 
that it has fince arrived at, yet, from its originality, 
it reflects the highefl: credit and praife upon the inven- 
tor. In our defcription the learner muft pay the great-- 
eft attention to the fymmetry in plate III^^ and digeft' 



as THE TAYLORS H INSTRUCTOP.. 

with (!are and application its parts, and lines, as thi;; 
is one of the truefl: models that can be drawn of it in 
miniature. You begin by meafuring your cuftomcr 
in the manner heretofore defcribcd, for coats,' with the 
addition of two meafures more, which is rarely follow- 
ed, but which cannot be difpenfed with, in this gar- 
ment. The firfl is from the top of your back at letter' 
Cy down to the lower point of your back fcyc, the next 
is from the top of your back at the feam, extending 
over the flioulder down to the length your cuftomer 
wants his lapell, as at letter/ on the plate — in begin- 
ning to cut your cloth, keep the creafe of the cloth on 
the fide oppofitc to you, fo that you may have the 
breafl of the coat next to you in drawing your lines. 
Begin by marking the top of your back at letter a, ex- 
tending your meafure to letter b at the waifl", then down 
to letter € at the bottom, making adeduction of a quar- 
ter of an inch for your fwcep in the w heelpiece, at xht 
back fkirts, and it muft have the exact length meafur- 
ed for. You will readily perceive the propriety of this 
precaution by the examination of your plate, where 
you will find at the bottom that your whcelpicce take.-^ 
in about half of your forepart plain — you proceed by 
extending your meafure half acrofs the back, viz. from 
the feam at letter e to your breadth acrofs at letter d — 
then down from the top of your back at letter a, to the 
lower point of your back fcye at the mark ; — this will 
be a certain criterion for the pitch of your fleeve, and a 
fure method of afcertaining the height of your fidefeam. 
Xhe next tiling you have to attend to,, is drawing a 



THE TAYLOR H INSTIiUCTOR. 3 

-ftraight line acrofs your cloth at fig. 2, letter b, at the 
v/aift, and the fame at the top of the lideleam ; th^ii 
you may begin and form your fcye^ as defcribed in the 
plate, obferving the lowering of the fcye below the line, 
and pitching the llioulder-ilrap well back, as this, if 
not attended to^ might materially hurt the fpring of 
the forepart, and make it wrinkle acrofs tlie back and 
fcye. Be very particular in afccrtaining whether your 
back and forepart be of a length to correfpond to each 
other. In order to find this out, you muft lay your back 
over on the double at the lide-feam, then bring the top 
of the back to the flioulder-feam at letter h, very little 
above the centre of the flioulder-feam ; this you will 
find an invariable rule, if you keep by the form of the 
fcye, as defcribed in the plate. You next proceed by- 
drawing a flraight line, nearly from what you might 
calculate to be the half breadth between the hip button, 
oppofite letter b at the waift, and let your line run 
ftraight upwards through the centre of the fcye at letter 
^, then to letter e at the ihoulder point of the gorge ; 
next from the waift down to the length of your coat, 
and exactly what this line falls at, is the mark for the rife 
of the forepart plaits ; thefc points being truly attended 
in the plate, it will undoubtedly prevent the power of 
any falfe fyflem from injuring the exact fymmetry of 
your coat. 

There is nothing particular, but what has been dif- 
culTedin the preceeding pages, on the analyfis of coats. 
Only remember to have your wheelpiece neatly fine 



4/0 THE TAYLORS INSTRUCTOR. 

drawn, as it will always extend to within two or three 
inches of the top at the cut-in for the back at letter c, 
the back fkirt muft likewife be fine drawn or Hotted 
acrofs at letter by after this is neatly executed, plait it 
up according to letter b at the bottom of the wheel- 
piece. We cannot difniifs this Chapter without re- 
commending the patent fleeve, without fore or back- 
arm feam, as they look extremely well in all coats they 
are worn in, if neatly cut according to fig. 4, in plate 
11. This coat, if well examined, will excite the curiofi^ 
ty of the fpectator, and will gain great applaufe from 
your cuftomers, which will be more fatisfactory, though 
•not more ujeful^ than the price* 




I'Miiii? fiitt"; bu.J,,' {>ufrn \- Wrj.ii/Kttfit. jfioo. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR, ^X 

CHAP. VII. 

Of Regimentals, viz. Bill dress Infantry y Navy, and Light 
Dragoons y zvitb practical observations. 



REGIMENTALS, the wonder of the laft century, 
comes next under our obfervations ; and, from the noh't^ 
and buftle made about them, claims a fliare in our ani- 
madverfions. But, fuffice it to fay, there is nothing 
in the cutting of thofe articles of drefs, but what is 
clearly folved, and judicioufly illudrated, in the pre- 
ceeding chapters on body coats. Notwithftanding this 
is the cafe, we frequently hear remarks made refpecting 
them, by a fev/ who imagine they have arrived at the 
fumraum bonum, of this part of the trade, and that all 
others are as unacquainted therewith as if it was not 
part of the bulinefs. It is true there are fome Taylors, 
who never have had an opportunity of either making 
up garments of this kind themselves, or feeing it done 
by others ; and it is for the benefit of fuch we write. 
We proceed by obferving that the theory in meafuring 
and fitting the body is exactly the fame as other clothes ; 
there is nothing which makes the diftinction, but the 



42 THE TAYi'OR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

different fhapes, contours, and facings, which form 
Regimental Order. We know it has been the puffoi 
the day, that a felcction of a few in each city, fhould 
be allotted to execute the principal part of this bulinefs, 
from what caufe we know not ; perhaps it is owing to 
their acquaintance with the different uniforms now in 
ufe, more than their fuperior talents in carrying on the 
bullnefs. The various uniforms belonging to the 
crown is fo diverfified, that it would be puerile to dif- 
cant upon all of them, as all regiments, from the guards 
down to the firfl: Regiment, has different forms and 
facings, according to the procedure and regulations of 
the war department, all regular troops are fubordinatc 
to this reftriction ; we know alfo, that the volunteers, 
and yeomanry of the united Kingdoms, who have to 
clothe themfelves independent of government, are alfo 
under the fame reftrictions to government, inafmuch 
as they mufl: always have their uniform to comport 
with thofe eftablifhed by the crown, yet they have a 
great advantage in the diverfity of cloth, and the me- 
chanical fkill difplayed on the facings and trimmings 
of many of the corps, which enables fome of them to 
outvie the regulars, in the brilliancy of appearance, an 
inftance of this kind may be here adduced. The law- 
yers' corps of Light Dragoons, in the city of Dublin, is 
not furpaiTed in point of military grandeur by any un- 
der the crown, and Henry Dundas, has adopted an 
imitation thereof, in the light Dragoons belonging to 



THE TAYLORS INSTRUCTOR. 43 

the {landing army. You will find a jufl: refemblancQ 
of this uniform in plate IV. fig. 9, the facings are fear- 
let, upon blue, with three rows of convex buttons, and 
the lace extending on both fides as far back as the plate 
defcribes, the lace is filver, and the rounding is done 
with a broader kind, flaytape breadth, the buttons clofe 
together on the breafl, and the round lace only leaving 
a light of the blue to be feen, which upon the whole 
makes it appear moft rich and brilliant. There are 
three rows put round the lower part of the collar, the 
broad in the centre, and the round along each fide, 
leaving a light of the blue and fcarlet edging, the cuffs 
at the top, has in like manner three rows, and at the 
vents mufl be a large bullet-hole left at the tacking, 
and four at the fore corners of the back, between the 
Ihoulders, and laced down the fide feam with the 
broad lace, then forming itfelf into a loop below the 
hip button, fuch as is defcribed on the plate, there is 
no welt fewed on at the pocket, but one row of the 
broad lace round the flit as defcribed in plate iV. fig. 9. 
forming itfelf into a crow's footCas it is called) and the 
buttons on the fleeve put on as fnown on plate IV. 
fig, 8. The V made with the fame lace as is on the 
breaft — there is four rows on the collar, extending as far 
back in gradation as thofe on the forepart, the wing on 
the fhoulder is braided filver and gold lace, with a 
mixed fringe, and this is put on fo as to occafionally 
take off, and their place fupplied with the ring plate 
ones, which are made afterthe manner of a horfe's curb, 
but broader in the plate. This looks very elegant 



U THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

when properly fixed on, and makes the exact fhape of 
the fhoulder joint. This uniform as to its originality 
took its rife from the HcfTians, hence the name of Huf- 
far jackets. This uniform is in our military arrange- 
ment, and has received the war department fanction, 
whereas before this, all dragoons ufed to wear long 
Ikirted coats, as in plate IV. iig. 2. only with this dif- 
ference of V holes laced on the fleeves, and forepart 
Ikirts down from the hip button to within five inches 
of the bottom j there is generally fix holes formed on 
each, three and three together, and a button in the 
centre of each hole ; thefe coats are ftill in vogue, and 
worn by the heavy dragoons ; the only difference be- 
tween heavy and light dragoons, arifes from the one 
continuing the long fisirts, and the other adopting the 
HulTar jackets. Nothing more need be remarked with 
refpect to the heavy dragoons' coats, only keep in mind 
the form of tHecut in plate IV. fig. 2. of infantry coats, 
as they muft be cut exactly after this form, for the only 
thing that m.akes the difference is in the manner of the 
lacings and facings ; and in making the fkirt turn-ups, 
there muft be an inch of fpace between the v holes and 
them ; this being attended to, and the meafurements tru- 
ly taken, you will find handles enough for exercifing 
your ideas and genius upon. There is one or two prac- 
tical remarks which may not be amifs before wc clofe 
on this fubject ;— firft, the lace that is put on for the 
dragoons, is flat on one fide, and round or convex on 



ii 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 45 

the fide that appears, it muft be fewed on in mechanic- 
al order, for in the making there is great diverfity for the 
journeyman to exercife his abiHties on, as the cuttim^ is 
the eafiest, fo the workman has ten chances to one, 
over his employer, to fhowhis judgment. As we have faid 
before there is nothing in thofe garments out of the the- 
ory and practice of the bufinefs, in fitting the body, 
only in the differentorder of the fiiapes, which is truly 
miniaturifed in the plate at fig. 2. But the man who 
marks it off with taste, and makes it up with judgmiCnr, 
gives proof to his employer that more depends upon 
him in the execution, than on the merits of cutting it. 
And when left to the difcrimination of the beholders, 
or cuftomer, will gain applaufe to the (hop, and carrier 
on of the trade, where the garment was .made. It is 
^.Iways a good plan for employers to keep good work- 
men, as much depends upon them. 

Having finifhed our obfervations on the regimentals 
worn by heavy and light dragoons, we proceed to define 
the infantry coats, as difplayed in plate IV. figures 2, 3, 
5, and 7. which is a true model of an infantry officer's 
coat, from a general to the lowefi: fubaltern. Notwith- 
ftanding there are many marks of diftinction in the 
faceings, buttonholes, and number of buttons, &c. 
For infi:ance, a general's full drefs uniform is fcarlet, 
faced with blue, ten holes on the lapell, and two on the 
collar, of gold vellum lace, four buttons and holes on the 
fleeve, or rather cuffs, according to fig. 7. in plate IV. 



46 THE TAYLOKS INSTRUCTOR. 

Thefe holes are put on at a regular diftancc from each 
other, as on the bread, not in pairs, there is no holes on 
the flaps of a general's coat; jufl: put on four buttons in 
fuch a manner that the half of the button will appear 
below the edge of the flap. The buttons are always 
round, topped with the crown and mace thereon. There 
are fcldom more than two buttons on the plaits, in as 
much as the turn-ups cover the place where the buttons 
fhould be placed. But there are now many of the field 
officers' coats made with the fingle plait, confcqucntly 
mufl: have the four buttons, and the back cut in the 
fame manner as a plain coat. The cafeing runs acrofs 
from the edge of the forepart to the back fly, and the cor- 
ners are faftened together with a hook and eye. His 
Royal Highnefs the Duke of York, was the firft who 
brought up the falhion of fingle plaits, and of the cafe- 
ing being the fame as the turn-ups, hence arofethe falh- 
ion of fingle plaits in plain coats, and anfwers every 
purpose when a coat is cut with a good fpring, for all 
extra work fliould be avoided when it comports with 
reafon and common fcnfe. We hope that the obferva- 
tions that have been made will enable our fi'udents to 
proceed in due form, fliould they have any of the general 
officers' coats to make. The lower rank of field officers, 
commiffioned, and non-commiffioned officers* coats, 
are made in the fame fliape as in plate IV. fig. 2. (with 
the exception of the general's) and even fometimes they 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 47 

will choofe them made in this manner, without the 
fkirts being broad and hooked over, the lace on officers' 
coats below the rank of general is (liver, and only eight 
buttons on the bread, a colonel and major wears two 
epaulets, the lieutenant colonel, and adjutant one. Re^- 
mem.ber that in all military officers' coats, put the 
pocket inlide, whether the lining be caffimere, white 
lilk, or ratinet, and let it be all of a piece, as this looks 
much neater than having the back and forepart Ikirt 
lined feparate. Take care that you put the bridle for 
faftening the epaulet, within tv/o inches of the ihoulder 
feam, fo that the cufliion may produce the deilred ef- 
fect, in the manly appearance, of being broad between 
the fhoulders, for as ail military characters ought to 
have a ftraight and lively appearance. The epaulets put 
on in this manner, makes the back appear as if there 
was a hollow between the fhoulders, and adds maich to 
the appearance of the figure. Let the four fmall but- 
tons on the collar be put on a range very little above the 
collar, we mean the buttons for the gorget plate, 
which hangs oppofite the chefl, and the tv/o for the 
epaulets. One remark it will be proper to make in this 
place, that as all those coats has no back fly, nor any 
forepart plait, fo of courfe the turn-ups of the back 
and forepart proceed from nothing at the top, down to 
the bottom, and form themfelves as on plate IV. fig. 2, 
and 5. and on the centre of the X which they form 
there is a horn or ftar placed very little larger than a 



48 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

button. We recommend the lapells to be faftened 
down to the forepart, although we fee a great many 
regimentals, where the lapells are left loofe, but this 
ought never to be the cafe, except in undrefs coats on 
engineers' full drefs, and all navy coats, &c. But wc 
recommend all infantry coats that has lace only on the 
lapells to be faftened to the forepart and the buttons 
fewed through. Keep in mind continually the form 
of the fig. 1. in plate IV. where you will perceive that 
the gorge is cut fhort, and the backs fomething broader 
than in other coats between the flioulders, the fhoulder 
feam Ihorter than cuftomary, and the flrap not fo far 
back, yet ftill adhering to the fyftern heretofore laid 
down, fo that the top may command the bottom in 
all cafes, let the figure be what it may. We now 
come to invelligate engineers' coats, as they ought not 
to be neglected in general order. The principle upon 
which they arc generally made is nearly fimilar to the 
navy officers' coats, the collar is a ftand-up and em- 
broidered with gold twift, and four button holes, two 
on each end of the collar, done in a frame, the lapells 
are done in like manner on the turn-up fide. Their un- 
drefs generally has wrought holes with twill, the col- 
our of the cloth which is blue, there is nothing partic- 
ular in the cut of thefe coats, only attend to the form 
defcribed in fig. 4. plate IV. after the embroidery is 
on there is little more trouble in making this than a 
plain coat. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR, 49 

We fhall wind up our remarks upon regimentals, 
by defcribing the manner of cutting and making up 
navy officers' uniforms, which is illullrated in plate IV- 
fig. I, 4, and 6. After having taken the meaflire, pro- 
ceed according to the theory heretofore defcribed, only 
cut your gorget pretty fliort, fo that the collar will juft 
hook at the feam, when made up. The back is cut with 
a fly as other coats, and the forepart cut full ; your lap- 
ells muft be exactly the form as on plate IV. fig. 4. 
there mult be herring bone holes on both fides of the 
lapells : the navy buttons have their motto to defignate 
their meaning, fuch as the anchor, &c. The holes on 
the flaps and fleeves exactly as pourtrayed upon the 
plates, and the buttons below the flaps, and eight but- 
tons on the plaits, the two on the centre the fame 
difl:ance from each other as thofe on the plaits. Many 
of thofe coats are made with fall-down collars, and 
the holes made on the fall-down ; but this is generally 
an undrefs, and cannot with propriety be called fo 
complete a uniform. Let thofe garments be put into 
the hands of the beft workmen, as there is a large 
fcope for exercising their abilities, both in marking off^ 
and in working the notched holes. There is much 
depends on the Ikill and judgment of the workman; 
for thofe coats, when badly made up, look truly ridi- 
culous, and call an odium on both mailer and man ; 
whereas if they are done completely, they will jufliify 
the employer's talents, and thofe whofe lot it is to make 
them up. 

G 



50 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

Thus have we given a few practical and theoretical 
hints upon the different kinds of regimentals now in 
vogue, and even traced by analogy, the fyftems of 
thofe which differ but very little from the figures de- 
lineated on the plate. It would be ufelefs to have giv- 
en more forms of regimentals, when thofe will an- 
fwer every purpofe which are fet forth as exact models 
of their kind, yet will ftill leave room for the ftudent to 
exercife his genius upon in his day and generation. 
And as we have paved the way, we hope thofe who are to 
follow, upon the new beaten road, will improve upon 
our boafled fyftem, and leave to pofterity ftill farther 
proof, that nothing has arrived at that ftate of perfec- 
tion, but it can be improved. 




niihu!:Tiih:'hi'l.,': «i„:'ii \- hTl.„i>y !>■!'. J'l-'i 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 51 



CHAP. VIIL 



Of Ladies' Habits. 



THE refpect due to the female character and tafte, 
makes it a difficult talk to cenfure, inafuitable manner, 
the many incongruities that have been propofed for the 
adoption of fome of our brethren of the profefiion. It 
is a common rule, to let the ladies have their own way ; 
but, in receiving their orders, the taylor muft be cau- 
tious never to deviate from the eftablifhed maxims of 
trade, merely to please their fancy. Although, he may^ 
with propriety, follow the whim of fafhion to a certain 
extent. As nature has been fo bountiful ip the forma? 
tion of the ladies, would it not be confident with reafon, 
if their dreffes were made coincident with nature, to 
difplay the elegance of their charms. The field of 
fafliion, without going beyond the bounds of fymmetry, 
is fufficiently extenfive. The ladies have no occafion 
to rack their fancies to invent fuch prepofierous dif- 
tortions : extravagance has no fimilitude to true ele- 
gance. 



62 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

At prefent there are many methods of making rid- 
ing habits, very different from the regular plan. For 
inftance : fomc make the waifl: too long, others make 
it too fliort ; by forne, the buttons were fet too far 
apart, not extending up to the fnouldcrs with a gradual 
rounding, which has a very graceful appearance. 
There are many other incongruities, that make it im- 
pollible for a workman, with his utmofl: diligence, to 
prefent that beautiful garment to public infpection, in 
the manner it deferves. 

Formerly, when the prevalent fafliion was in unifon 
with the fliape of the body, it was a didinguifhing 
merit in a taylor, to be able, neatly to equip a lady, in 
thefe beautiful habiliments ; how much more fo mud 
it be now, when the rage of fafhion has deprived us of 
the guide which nature pointed out as a direction for 
fitting the body ? What will you think, when inform- 
ed of the difference and quick traniition of fafhion, in 
this particular, between 1791 and 1797 ? In the for- 
mer, the waifl was cut full nine inches long, from un- 
der the arm dovv'n to the hip, which by the by, is the 
proper way of meafuring for the length of the waifl. 
In the latter, we have feen, and were frequently 
obliged to cut them only three inches long, for figures 
of exactly the fam? fize. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 53 

Hahit-making is a neat and delicate part of the profef- 
fion, underftood but by few ; it is feldom practifed by, 
and is unknown to thoufands of taylors. Although, by 
many it may be thought to be parr of the taylor's trade, 
yet they are quite diflimilar; and are as different as 
that of a cabinet-maker and carpenter. It is a pit^% 
however, that it is not better underftood by taylors ; fo 
that apprentices m.ight become acquainted with it ^ 
and the knowledge of it more generally diffufed, as well 
in the country as in cities. Ladies, then, upon an 
emergency, might be fupplied without difficulty. — 
We mention this, becaufe we have known taylors, both 
in town and country, who, rather than confefs that they 
were ignorant of habit-making, have undertaken this 
part of the bulinefs for famihes ; by which they fpoiled 
the materials, and loft their cuftom ; this happened to 
taylors, who in other matters had given general fatif- 
faction, for a conliderable length of time. No man can 
juftly be blamed for what h^ does not know. It is tru- 
ly a pity that country taylors have not paid more atten- 
tion to the nature of habit-making ; it is certainly the 
moft plealing part of the bulinefs. For what, in any 
iituation, can fo ftrongly recommend them to cuftom 
and eftabliiliment as the favorable opinion of the ladies? 
BefideSjWhen we confider the improvement ofdrefs and 
manners, the increafe of population, riches, andinduftry, 
in this country within the iaft twenty years, it becomes 
not only a matter of merit, but of neceflity, for every man 



5i. THE TAYLORS INSTRUCTOR. 

to become acquainted with the mod minute parts of his 
bufinefs ; his own intereft as well as the luxury and pro- 
fufion of the times, require it. Fifty habits are now 
made for one, in comparifon with the time we former- 
ly mentioned. You will fcarcely fee a farmer's daughter 
m market, or a mechanic's daughter parading through 
the ftreet, who has not one ; which makes the know- 
ledge of it the more ''ITential. For the benefit offuch 
of our brethren as are not well verfed in this part of 
the bufmefs, we will ufe our beft endeavours to ground 
them thoroughly in every particular, that may tend to 
their improvement ; fo that what they lack in practice, 
they may make up by diligently adhering to the rules 
we have laid down, and illuftrated in the plates. Wc 
hope that every inquirer after knowledge will avail 
himfelf ofthis opportunity. 

For the method of meafuring for a habit and (kirt, 
take the following rule : firft meafure from under the 
arm, at letter ^, on plate V. at the fcye, down about 
five inches ; this you muft calculate yourfelf according 
tothefize of the lady you are meafuring, to letter^ as 
the plate directs ; there mark the meafure, which will 
be the length of the body. Next down the back, from 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. • hb 

the top at letter ^, to letter h^ at the bottom, then acrofs 
for the breadth of the back, from the creafe or back feam, 
at letters, then down to the elbow and hand. Remember 
to mark the meafure ; you next meafure round the body, 
as high as poffible under the arms, and round the waift; 
you next meafure round the arm at the fleeve top, as far 
in upon the body as you can for the fcye, and afterwards 
as many times round the arm as you pleafc, or think 
proper, and mark the meafure ; but be very correcfl 
about the wrift, as it muii fit neat and clofe. With 
refpe6t to the bread, be delicate and judicious', and 
take meafure half acrofs with a proper allowance for 
theriiing prominency ; meafure likewife from the top 
of the back at letter ^, over the Ihoulder and down to 
the lower part of the breaft, or la-pell, at letter c, or to 
what the lady may wifh, and the ruling falhion m.ay 
dictate. For the length of the fkirt or petticoat, meaf- 
ure from where you left off at the lide, at letter/, down 
to the ground, and any other part you may think pro- 
per ; you will do well to meafure from the top of the 
back, to the lower point of the back fcye, at letter ^, as 
thefe are the leading features in meafuring. Thefe 
meafurements being taken, if it be required of you, how 
much cloth will anfwer the purpofe, you will be able 
to afcertain the queftion, by the following rules : — 



56 THE TJYLOIVS INSTRUCTOR. 

If the lady requires a half breadth in the fkirr, 
which is very feldom the cafe now, you mull take full 
three times the length of your llvirt. If you fhould be 
at a lofs to know how to put in the half breadth, ob- 
ferve our remarks on cutting out habits. Firfl:, take 
your cloth, meafure it, and cut off the fkirt. Then 
lay the cloth ftraight, and cut the edges where the feams 
are to be, in a ftraight line ; then open your piece to the 
full width, and cut your pocket-holes about fix inches 
from the feam, in the breadth that is for the front ; then 
lay a line from the top of the pocket-holes, about fix 
inches from the feam, in the half breadth before, that 
is the front ; let it fall in a ftraight line, from the top 
of the pocket holes to the front, about two inches to 
make a hollowing ; and cut it off, that it may not be too 
thick and clumfy in the binding ; after your feams are 
fewed, you will find it wider behind, than before, by 
twelve inches, which the fl<;irts require, that are cut 
according to this plan ; in plaiting up to the meafure of 
the waift, remember to lay all your plaits towards the 
hip, from the front, and leave about five inches plain 
before, for the apron. In the breadth behind, lay the 
plaits in fuch a way, from the fide or hips, that the in« 
fide at the back may appear like the outfide of the 
front ; that is, from the hips, to the back feam j let the 
plaits meet each other at the back feam. This will 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 67 

give an agreeable fulnefs to the Ikirt behind, and add 
much to the effect. Should you want half a breadth 
more, take the remaining part of your cloth, and fplit it 
in two, and put the pieces on each fide ; then the pet- 
ticoat will hang properly, and the feams will not be out 
of their places. Remember, at the fame time, to make 
your pocket-holes twelve inches within the half 
breadth ; that is, fix inches on each fide as before ; and 
after it is plaited up, put a band of cloth, two or three 
inches wide, at the top of the fkirts before^ if it be not 
fattened to the infide of the waiftcoat* 

In cuti;ing the jacket part of the habit, be a little cir- 
cumfpect J as fome tafte and genius are required. Firfi, 
mark your back according to the plate j and take fuU 
as large a back hollowing, as the plate directs ; for in. 
this part, we fee errors made by many of our prin_ 
cipal habit-makers. For want of fufficient hollowing 
in the back, the jacket fkirts part behind, but if you 
follow the directions of the plate, you will find that the 
back will lap over behind, when the feams are lew- 
ed up. 



H 



58 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

Yet, this hollowing of the back muft be done with 
difcretion ; for, (hould you do it to excefs, you would 
fpoil the whole habit, and make it wrinkle, both acrofs 
the back, and under the arms — (an error which is too 
frequently feen.) Take care alfo, to cut the top of 
your backs wide on the fhoulders ; for women are, in 
that part, proportionably larger than men all the way 
up to the back of the neck ; this may be owing to hav- 
ing lefs reftraint upon this part then men. 

Take notice in cutting your forepart, to mark the 
turn of the plate in the bread, and the pieces that are 
to be cut out, in the front of the bread, and at the 
bottom ; which are to be fine drawn up again ; thi.s 
anfwers for cafe in the breaft. 

The back rows of buttons may be fewed on, begin- 
ning at the finedraw below, but keeping this maxim in 
view, that the change, or mutability of fafliion will 
make no alteration, in the rule for fitting the body. 



THE TAYLOKS INSTRUCTOR. 59 



Of cutting the hack and forepart^ to anfwer each other ^ fo as 
to fit with ea/e and elegance. 



IN order to make the back and forepart in unlfon -, 
lay the hips of the back to the hips of the forepart, 
and ftretch the back up as high as you can, and at the 
lop of the back, there mark your forepart-fhoulder 
acrofs, and cut it to the likenefs of the plate ; with an 
agreeable round in the breaft ; as a fingle breaded is 
entirely the fafhion. Confider that a round prominent 
breaft, is the chief ornament, and give your lide-feams 
the fame ftiape as the plate ; likewife your fkirts, ac- 
cording to the direction given in it for the fore parts are 
to be fattened at letter hy and/, acrofs ; and when you 
have it on, you will find it correfpond to the back 
Ikirt ; which you may cut to tack over like the back of 
a coat; or in one piece like the back of childrens' 
jackets ; you will find that adhering to the form of your 
forepart fkirts, they will all fall agreeably, and eafily 
together — thofe confiderations you will find worthy of 
your clofeft application. Many of the maxims are but 
flightly underftood ; in refpect to joining the back 
and forepart together. Avoid the old trite cuftom 
of bearing on either the front part, or back ; it is a 



60 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

pity that many refpectable workmen will ftill follow 
this method of bearing on the front in one place, and 
the back in another ; without confide ring that bearing 
on the forepart, draws the back : and bearing on the 
back, draws the forepart. Though this may not be 
feen, in the firfi: inftance, as prefling will flirink the 
parts for a time ; but in a few days' wear thefe difagree- 
able effects will appear; and the lady, inftead of re- 
ceiving an addition to her fhape, will appear crooked 
and deformed. 

By all means fewthefeamsflraight ; this is the genuine 
way, and is fo evident, that every practitioner muft be 
convinced of it, if he confiders the habit-bodies with- 
out any feams at all ; there the cloth is flrait, without 
bearing on ; and fo muft all habits be, with feams ; or 
they will never fit the body. 

Observe the figure before you, of the habit without 
feams, will anfwer every purpofe ; only look to the line 
where the fide feam ought to be, and it will teach you 
how the back ought to be cut ; and you muft remember 
aback, if it has'feams, hollows it. Be careful how you 
cut the ftioulder of the forepart ; for fliould you cut it 
too fliort, though but one quarter of an inch, your habit 
will wrinkle acrofs the back, and under the arm. 
Some ladies, through a protuberance in front, require 
a long forepart, which will baffle any thing but great 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 61 

experience, and mud be provided againft. Refpecting 
the fleeves, you muit have recourfe to the method deL 
cribed in the plate, for the form, and draw it in at the 
bend of the arm, at fig. 5- cutting the piece out, as 
the ladies, through cuftom, have a manner of holding 
their arms more bending then men, which requires the 
fleeves to be more crooked and bent. — Alfo, in making 
the fleeves, remember to let a piece of outlet be in the 
under feam, hollowing it according to the plate, below 
the fleeve top. — Be fure you hollow it according to the 
plate at the top; which, when put on, will clear that 
iuperfluity under the arms, which is an egregious fault, 
too often expofed to our view ; clear your arm hole, 
before you put in your fleeves — you may hold the 
body eafy on the fleeve, from the fide feam, nearly to 
the fore-arm feam ; and from it, you may keep the 
fleeve top full on the body, to within three inches of 
the fhoulder feam. Your fcye ought to be lined all 
round the body, as by the friction againft the body, if 
the lady wear whale-bone vefls, in the infide, under her 
habit waiflcoat, it will foon wear out under the arms. 
Cut your collar, as is fnewn in the plate, on the bottom 
edge ; make a ftraight fieeve, without forearm or back- 
arm feam, as they look much neater. We recommend 
the fkirts to be rantered on, as the body will by this 
means, look much neater in the wearing. 



62 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

Also note, if you cut your back too wide acrofs the 
Ihoulders, it difconcerts the fitting upon the top, or 
neck of the fhouldcrs, and will keep the fleeve from 
coming up, and make a difagreeable appearance in the 
fleeve lining all the way down from the top, which is 
frequently complained of. The way to prevent an y 
faulfis in this place is to cut the back narrow acrofs the 
fhoulder, and give more fleeve to anfwer this ; for when 
ever you take from one place, you mufl add to another, 
to make out the fcye. We have, in the courfe of our 
practice, met with habits, in which the feams of the 
fleeves turned upon the top of the arm, and the fame 
habit was returned after alteration feveral times, with 
the fame fault, till we faw it, and found that the defecfl 
arofe from not pitching the fleeve right. The proper 
way of doing this, is to take the habit body, lay it with 
one hand, two inches from the hip ; and the other hand 
in the arm hole, and where it folds, which may be 
about two inches from the flioulder feam, from which 
place double it under the arm ; then double it before 
from the back (eye, and where the mark falls— there 
let the feams of your fleeves be put, as that is the right 
way of dividing the arm-hole in four parts, which will 
caufe the fleeves to hang true without twifl:ing. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 63 



Hahiis continued. 



BEFORE wc leave the iubject of habits, it is ncccf- 
fary to inform our readers, that, according lo the new- 
er mode of cutting the fkirts, the general pattern for 
a middle fized lady is three yards, and thofe of a larger 
fize, from three and a quarter to three and a half: but 
this you can calculate according to the fize. From the 
middle fize, and any under this llandard you can calcu- 
late ; — fay, from two and half, to two and {^.^tn eighths^ 
It muft be cloth of the fuperfine breadth, as in the 
fkirts we have juft mentioned ; but there is not near as 
much cloth put in. Remember alfo, that the length 
of your (kirt muft be cut about a quarter of a yard in, 
on the double of the cloth at the top, and run on a ftraight 
line down to nothing at the bottom, on the felvage 
edge of the cloth. Your front piece, or apron, may be 
cut at the top of the waift, and down at the bottom ; 
you need not exceed a quarter of a yard in the breadth 
of your piece ; this will be very little more than the 
half breadth of your cloth on the double, and not half 
that above ; — this will make it full enough ; and is a 
great faving of the cloth, which fome years ago wa^ 



64 THE TAYLOIVS INSTRUCTOR. 

only ufelefsly plaited up. Your front piece need not 
have more than two fmall plaits on each hip, and your 
back piece plaited to the meafure. 

The patent habit deferves fome notice here, as this 
very delicate article of drefs is not an invention of our 
fchool ; though we are taking upon us the authority of 
explainingitto the world. We own we are pofTelTed 
of the enlightened ideas of the author, and willi to be- 
ftow him every praifc that is due to his great abilities in 
the trade, as well as his condefcenlion in permitting us 
to publifh it in this work. The inventor, Mr. Jameb 
Key, late of Bond-ftreet, born, we are told, at Ather- 
ftone in Warwickfliire, a man of great attention and 
application in bufinefs, for his very remarkable abilities 
in the difcovery, and execution of the plan of making 
clothes and habits, without the accuftomed feams in 
the fleeves, received his majefty's royal letters patent. 
It is not for this invention alone, that our tribute of 
praife is fo liberally beftowed ; but his abilities in eve- 
ry other branch of the trade. — We have made it our 
bulinefs to obtain ladies' habits, and clothes of every 
fort, made by him ; which we have unripped, to dif- 
cover his plan : which we muft own, has given us great 
fatisfaction. We think him a complete mailer of his 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 65 

ihears, and a great ornament to the trade. This habit 
without feams, we have moft minutely examined ; and 
have given it our belt attention : and we lincerely think 
the invention deferves every notice that the warmth of 
penegyric can beftow upon it, as it not only is admira- 
ble in the execution, but beneficial in the plan. The 
very fine materials of which the habit clothes are made, 
required the ftrideft attention, and muft have been 
judicioufly confidered by the patentee, for the dye of 
many of the moft delicate colours is eafily taken out 
by preffing with a hot iron, upon the feams, which too 
freequently changes the colour of the cloth, and has 
a difagreeable appearance. This i? totally done away 
by making the body of one entire piece, and cutting the 
fleeve fo ingenioufly, that both front, and back arm 
feams are eradicated, and only one fcam in the under 
part, imperceptible to either wearer or obferver. We 
think feams ihould always be difpenfed with, where 
they are more prejudicial than ufeful. When ladies' 
habit fleeves are made without the ufual feams, it pre- 
vents a great deal of duft from lodging upon them ; 
which, if caught by a Ihower of rain, can never have 
that clean appearance that the infide of the arm has 
without the feams. It may be brulhed the fam.e as any 
other part of the body, even in gentlemen's coats, how 
freequently do we fee difagreeable appearances, in the 



66 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

infide feams, by means of powder and dull; and in 
which, by conflant and fevere brulhing, the fewing is 
foon worn out and the fleeves become faded and fhabby, 
before the grain is worn off the reft of the coat. From 
the abovementioned premifes, the patent riding-habit 
has a great advantage, not only for the mxrrit of cutting 
and making the fleeves, but alfo on account of the 
body being made without feams in either fide or back. 
To prove that our opinions are not lingular, we have 
cut them and feen them on the back of hundreds. 
Hence lingular advantages m\\ refult to those mantua- 
makers, who may think proper to confult the conftruc- 
tion we fliall adduce for the execution of this nice 
point of practice, which will be quite as beneficial to 
them as to profelTed habit makers. 

There is but little difference between making habits 
of fine broad cloth and cotton. The fame maxims 
muft be ufed in either, a ftrict obfervance mult be paid 
to the plate and its delineations, and when you have paid 
a due application to the manner of it, and are about to 
cut out one of thofe habits without feams in the back, 
or lide ; first lay the ftuff on the double fl-raight down 
from the part where the back feam is ufually made, cut 
the waift to the point down before as the manner of the 



THE TAYLORS INSTRUCTOR. 67 

plate, and hollow it in the fame manner from ihe^bottom 
of the back behind, accrofs to the forepart front. The 
fcheme of this maxim will be obvious, . when we 
inform our readers, that when the fhoulders are clofed 
together, it will drag up before, v/hich makes an elTen- 
tial difference between cutting one of this fort and one 
with feams ; for if our learner will but try, he will find 
from the top of the back at letter a, to the top of the 
Ihoulder at letter i, to be of the fame length, as it is 
from the bottom of the back at letter ^, and the bottom 
of the forepart at letter dy that when the fhoulders are 
feamed together, the body part will be flraight and level 
all round, and the forepart no longer than the back. 
Thefe are the fymptoms that produce fuch admirable 
efFeds, giving room in every part, yet compels the 
back and body ro fit clean and clear from wrinkles when 
put on. Which even afloniflies experienced taylors, 
though grounded in the caufe that effects it. We have 
been told of many who have imagined it was an eafy 
point of practice, to make one of thofe patent habit 
|3odies : who for want of experience have failed as often 
as they attempted it, and^ever will until they follow the 
rules laid here. Such practitioners will make a better 
(hift with habits that are made with feams, for they 
have the advantage of alterations, to bring them to a 
point ; in the other, the merit is in the cutting, and muft 



6B THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

be atchieved in the firft effort with a Uttle confideration 
of feaming the parts properly together ; but we hope 
thofe, and the others with feams, are both fo clear in 
detail and definition in the figures in the plates, that 
with a little trouble, no profeffor in the bufinefs will 
be long in ignorance, either about the practice of habits, 
or any other part of the bufinefs. We further obferve, 
that in making habits with feams, one of the principal 
errors arifes fifom the different parts not working well 
together. For to manage this matter properly, the back 
feam mufl be cut, as a kind of elafticity will refult from the 
cloth, it muftalmoftbethe fame as the foreparts, though 
cut in a different direction, and which, if not duly at- 
tended to, will caufe one part not to work with another, 
owing chiefly to uniting places that are cut elallic, 
with fuch as will not ftretch. This refults from the 
ignorance of thofe who feam them together, there are 
men, who are fo confident of themfelves as to bear the 
back on in fome places, and the fore part in others, 
and aflBrm, that the body requires it. But we totally 
contradict this affertion, as they muft not be fulled on 
in any parts, nothing can be fo puerile or childifh, as to 
to bear on in one part of the cloth more than in another, 
they muft be all equal. To fuppofe that fulling any 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 69 

part of a riding habit, could affift the fitting of it, is a 
moll ridiculous conceit, and unworthy the attention of 
an/ man, poffelTed of the Icaft fcientific knowledge iii 
the trade. We hope fhortly to fee all fuch monftrous 
incongruities banifhed, and that the ftrong will affift the 
^eak, that a kind of fympathetic union may be main- 
tained in all Ihops, throughout the continent. 

The previous obfervations with the plates and the 
figures, and the feparated parts, we hope will be fufficient 
to define the whole method of making the patent riding 
habit, and the lleeves which is mod particular in the 
practice will appear fo plain to every taylor by the draw- 
ings, that a further detail will be unneceflary. His own 
reafon will tell him that the back arm feams are marked 
on the cloth, that a furplus both of inlide and outfide 
muft be left on the cloth, in the width to make as much 
as will turn round the arm, and that in bending after 
the fleeve is nicked and narrow in the hollow part of 
the arm, and the cloth is turned down to the under 
fide, and a guflit piece is cut out of the infide and fine- 
drawn to complete the bend of the arm, the fame of the 
outfide; thefe obfervations might be reduced to practice 
by the ftudent, before his firfl attempt, if he is doubt- 
ful, by cutting a piece of paper the figure of a fleeve, 



70 THE TAYLORS INSTRUCTOR. 

^i>d turning it down as above obferved. Remember to 
take that meafure from the top of the' back at .letter a, 
to letter h, where you think your fide feams at the top, 
or lower point of the back fcye, this is a chief and prin- 
cipal point. 



THE T4YL0E?S INSTRUCTOR. 71 



Some practical obfervations on Ladies' Coats for riding on 
various occafionSy either in poft-chaije or phaeton. 



THOSE drefTes worn by fome ladies inftead of habits, 
are going out of falhion, by ladies of diftinction ; 
and the fubftitute for fome time back, has been police 
coats, made of cloth for that purpofe ; or velvet which 
looks very rich, more fo when it is not tabby but filk. 
Of thofe there is various fhapes and diverlities. — But 
they are principally executed by mantua makers : and 
fo much the better for the trade, as we need not covet 
any thing in their garments, but in the woolen line. 
Of thofe coats there is much neatnefs attached to them 
when they are well executed, and require as much deli- 
cacy in cutting and making as a habit. There is this 
principal difference, that the fkirt of a levett coat, is 
faftened to the body, and the jacket and petticoat 
or Ikirt of the riding habit, are too abftra6t mat- 
ters. But the fame kind of turns which are in 
thofe coats are in habits, and entirely of the fame 
nature. Vou muft bind the front breadth from the 



7& THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

pocket holes, with a band to button on the body before, 
and plait it in the band, the fame as the habit petticoat, 
with any other addition of ornament which fancy or 
fafhion may dictate. With refpect to ladies' phaeton 
coats, this is made after the manner of a coachman's 
box coat, with as many deceptions and capes. The 
only difficulty attending thofe coats, is in fitting the 
capes, which is done in the following manner — when 
your fhoulders are feamed and the fides, open the coat 
and mark if the back and forepart llioulder lie flat upon 
the board ; if fo, then cut the capes exactly asv the 
Ihape of the neck, and when they are put on they will 
fit fnug and eafy. This is as eafy and as general a plan 
as we can recommend for the uninformed adepts ; but 
they can ufe their own genius in other plans if they 
pleafe, obferve that the back and forepart muft be both 
of a length at the top ; the back muft not drop in the 
middle of the fhoulder feam, but like the neck of a 
waiftcoat, come clofe up before, but at the bottom 
before, it muft be three inches longer than the back 
behind, or it will not hang well ; for when on it will 
be {hotter before than behind. The like muft be a 
coachman's box coat in every part, ftand-up collars are 
fometimes made to ladies' coats, but box coats have 
falldown, and both muft be cut long in the neck, to be 
plaited on under the capes at the fewing of the collar to 
give eafe upon the ftioulders. An inexperienced mart 
in thofe matters would hardly fuppofe the quantity of 



THE TAYLORS INSTRUCTOR. 73 

cloth made ufc of in thefe capes ; we have known four 
yards and an half (of narrow cloth) in one of them. Hav- 
ing led our pupil thus far, we hope he will be able now 
to find his way without affiftancc, if his application is 
but adequate to the defire we have had to ferve him, he 
will, we make no doubt, cut a very brilliant figure m 
the trade, after he has had a little practice to juftify our 
maxims. 



K 



THE TAYLORS INSTRUCTOR 



CHAP. VIII. 



On the theory and practice offmgle and double milled CaJ/mere 
Breeches and Pantaloons. 



THE manner of meafuring for this fort of breeches 
differs not from the practice in the other kinds, def- 
cribed in the following pages. Firft, take the meafurc 
from the hip bone, making allowance for the rife the 
party wants them, meafuring exactly from the hip 
bone down below the cap of the knee, and as much 
longer as the prevailing fafhion may fugged ; then 
meafure tight below the knee, and above at the flit, 
and the thick part of the thigh ; next round the waifl:- 
band ; — if you are meafuring a tall man, remember he 
will take too yards of cafiimere for breeches, and for 
pantaloons two yards and an half will be fufficient, and no 
lefs , The cafiimere mufl: be cut in the following man- 
ner, and marked : — firfl, double the cloth, with the 
wrong fide towards you, and take care that the grain 
of the wool runs right down the thigh. — Firft, mark 




J^lii/aii''J'iiltf III! J,ii<>iieeii K- lf.'"J.ai>stei>, i<1,to. 



TME TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 75 

the pockets and f^illdovvn, (commonly called the fpare 
feam,) and having laid your meafure at the mark on 
the hip, extend your meafure down to the cap of the 
knee, and mark your knee ftraight acrofs, and the fame 
at the fmall below the knee ; and let it be rather fliorter 
towards the leg feam, than it is from the fide feam at the 
bottom of the flit; — then mark up the legfeam accord- 
ing to your meafure, with this previfo, that you make 
a little allowance, if your cuftomer wants them eafy, in 
fingle milled caffimere you may cut them to the meafure, 
asjt is more elaftic than the double milled, they fiiould 
be cut a quarter of an inch lefs on the double, if they be 
wanted to fit tight to the thigh, as this kind of caffimere 
is adequate to it, if they are wanted tight. 

If this direction be not firictly followed, the breeches 
will be mofi afTuredly too wide, and the cufiomer may 
be greatly difappointed, fhould articles of this fort be 
wanted upon an emergency. Befides, misfitting caufes 
doubt, and may refled difcredit on the ability of the 
taylor, on future occafions. 

When you have proceeded thus far, according to 
the inftructions ; lay your meafure up the thigh, and be 
fure you give ftride enough, and a long fpare feam. 
It is neceflary to poflefs a certain rule for pitching the 
fork. Take the following : cut your falldown firaight, 
till you come within four inches of the fork or bot- 
tom, then turn up gradually, until you make a fh.ape 
fimilar to that defcribed in the plate ; and let your leg 



76 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

feam be fix inches fhorter than your fide feam. Mea- 
fure from the hip-bone to the knee-bone, oppofite the 
cap, and to have this the more exact : remember, there 
is always a Httle bone like a knob, that you will feel when 
meafuring, and be fure to mark the meafure there as 
below, for the length. This rule is but little known 
by the trade in general : it is only by chance that they 
may hit it ; perhaps it is often owing to the goodnefs of 
pattern, which is too much followed by men at the 
taylor's bufinefs, for want of a methodical fyftem to 
direct them. Therefore we aver, that this rule is 
indifpenfibly neceflary to our theory and practice ; and 
by following it, you will be certain of having given a 
plenty of fi:ride-room. Take care that your fide feam 
be neat and hollovy, and the leg feam as ftraight as 
pofiible. When this is done, cut your infide round upon 
the feat, and leave no fullnefs in it for the waiftband; 
as, by cutting your feat round at the top, you will find 
fi-ifficient fullnefs. In order to ftrike your feat of a 
proper length, lay the meafure from the fork to the 
hip, and run the meafure to the end of the feat, keeping 
your finger on the meafure at the fofk; after this is 
done, cut your fittings, fuch as waiftbands, kneebands, 
and top bits ; and in making, if the breeches be ftiort, 
let .the upper fide be beared on the garter; if they are 
required long, it is necelTary that the under fide be not 
hollowed in the ham, but cut fl:raight acrofs, and the 
garter fewed on full for the rife of the calf of the leg, and 
on the upper fide the garter fewed on plain. In putting 
o» your waifi:bands be fure they are put forward before 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 77 

the fpare feam at the centre of the falldown about half 
an inch, after they are made up. When that is accom- 
pHflied, and the buttons on, button and ftretch them 
fo that they will fit the falldown ; then mark the fall 
buttons about a quarter of an inch above the button 
hole of the fall upon the waiftband ; fo that neatnefs 
and compactnefs may viiibly appear to every obferver. 
Nothing has a worfe effect than a loofe falldown j it has 
an indelicate appearance, which decency cannot warrant. 



78 THE TAYLOIVS INSTRUCTOR. 



Oh Cajmere Pania/oonSj continued. 



THE fame meafurement that has been fubmitted 
for confideration on caffimere breeches, either double or 
fingle milled, will anfwer for the parts above, with this 
additional meafuring ; that is, from the fmall under the 
cap of the knee to the rife or centre of the calf of the 
leg, and down the fmall or ancle, and round the fmall 
and calf of the leg, and alfo the fmall under the knee, 
at your lengths run a line acrofs as defcribed in the plate 
on pantaloons, according to the letters. 

The practice in making the above garments, is 
rtridly to adhere to the meafure, carefully taken in every 
refpedl, as is directed in the obfervations already made. 
In regular bufinefs, where no advantage or dependence 
is to be had, either from elafcicity or deduction ; what- 
ever is contrary to fair and exact meafuring in thofe 
kinds of materials, will only tend to bewilder the pupil, 
and lead him from the rectitude of his judgment. 
Take notice what fort of fluff the person you arc mea., 
furing has on ; that you err not on account of the clofe- 
nefs and thicknefs of the one fort, or the lightnefs or 
thinnefs of the others ; fo that vou can make it a 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 79 

little narrower or broadex than the meafure, as circum- 
llances and occaiions vary ; for our learner muft obferve 
that if we are ever fo plain in our inftructions, there will 
be room enough left for him to exercife his own genius. 
This will ever be the cafe, whilft there is a difference 
betwixt faying and doing, or betwixtt defcription and 
execution. We need not enter into a difquiiition con- 
cerning any fort of cloth ; it is no ufe to make puerile 
or unneceflary obfervations, when we have matters of 
more ferious confideration to treat of. Imboft caffi- 
mere ought to be taken notice of in this place. Let the 
meafurements be the fame as defcribed in the milled 
cafTimere, adhering to the length and width, neither 
adding nor dimimihmg ; only in cutting, keep them 
in your mind, fuch as milled caflimere, and in cutting 
the out and infide be careful to let the ftripes run down 
the thigh, that they may not appear crooked, when put 
on ; and take care that your waiftbands be forwarded, as 
before obferved on the method of making them. There 
will need no further comm.ent ; only we wifh you to have 
recourfe to the obfervations already made on caffimere 
breeches and pantaloons. 



80 THE TAYLORS INSTRUCTOR. 



Some practical objervations on the theory and practice of 
making Breeches, 



THIS delicate and neceflary appendage to drefs 
requires more comment than the trade would, perhaps, 
really imagine ; chiefly owing to the great variety of 
materials of which they are compofed, according to the 
choice and approbation of various cuftomers, and that 
they may fuit the purpofes varioufly intended ; for in all 
the changes and various textures of the ditferent ftufl^s 
to be ufed for this article, there is a great difference 
both in the theory and practice, as will appear in their 
feparate lineaments, owing to the elaflicity of fome, 
the thicknefs of others, and the repulfion of the reft. 
Therefore, till our pupil has exammed, and properly 
digefted this matter, and availed himfelf of the different 
rules for meafuring and marking, and, as it were, fcrew- 
ed them to his memory, as we hope he will carefully 
read and follow the precepts hereunto annexed ; as they 
•will prove to him, in every refpect, a perfect juftifica- 
tion of the precepts we have imparted* 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR, 81 



CHAP. X. 



How to meafure a gentleman for Breeches »f any kindy and 
PanialooJis^ with, and without feet. 



FIRST, lay the end of your meafure up above the 
hip bone, as high as your cuftomer wifhes, and mark 
it at the hip bone ; then extend the meafure down the 
thigh to the bottom of the cap of the knee, and as much 
lower as the rage of fafhion may fuggeft, or the party 
require it. 

Secondly, meafure the thigh tight ; alfo, meafufe 
very tight below the cap of the knee, and in the hollow 
part above the knee. Next meafure the thick part, as 
tight as poffible — afterwards round the fmall part of 
the body, for the length of the waiflband, which is all 
that is neceflary. Only if they want them to rife on the 
calf of the leg, you muft meafure the rife at the place 
they want them ; and, in like manner, give the fame 
addition in the length. The fame meafurements will 
anfwer for pantaloons above ; only you muft mark the 



83 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

meafure below the knee and at the calf, then down to 
the fmall : or, if they fhould want them with feet, you 
mull extend it down to the fole of the Ihoe. This being 
done, in order to afcertain exactly how to meafure for 
the tongue and foot, meafure the exact length of the 
fole ; then extend the meafure round the heel to the 
hollow at the inftep, and mark it exadlly, then as many 
times round the foot as you may think proper ; after- 
wards round the ancle or fmall of the leg, and at the 
calf of the leg. For further particulars, we refer you to 
the plate on the analylis of pantaloons with feet. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 83 



Some practical ohfervations on cutting and making Breeches 
and Pantaloons. 



WHEN at your cutting board, if it be any of the 

fiocking web piece you have before you, obferve the 

following directions, which entirely refult from the 

ftretch or elafticity that there is in all frame work of 

this nature, and require that the breeches or pantaloons 

be three inches longer than the meafure. But more of 

this hereafter. Firft, lay your meafure up about three 

or four inches above the mark at the hip upon the piece j 

then extend it to the intended place at the knee, and 

mark it for cutting an inch and a half longer ^ then 

for the width, lay on the meafure at the bottom of the 

knee, and mark for cutting one inch narrower than the 

meafure, and the fame in gr: dation all the way up, on 

the double of the fluff — and be fure to abide by the 

following example for the ftride. Firft, make a deep 

falldown, and having laid your finger upon the meafure 

at the bottom of the knee, with the other hand extend 

the meafure to the fork, and make the ftride within 

three inches of the length of the meafure below the 



84. THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

mark at the hip bone ; this will give proper room for 
the elaflicity of the materials, and eafe and freedom to 
the wearer. 

Next cut your leg feam very ftraight, and not hollow, 
as is the common practice ; and let the lidefeams be 
likewife ftraight from the knee flit up to within four 
inches of the hip, and let it fpring out gradually about 
;^n inch and a quarter at the top. 

When this is done, and your breeches are put on, 
you will find them fit neat and the ribs run ftraight 
down : there is an egregious fault, too often expofed to 
public notice. — We often fee ribs go twifting acrofs the 
thigh, and make them look crooked, and inwardly 
inclining, which feems to the fpectator (according to 
the old vulgar adage) as if people were ill ftiaped or 
knap-kneed. When you have got fo far, cut your {eat 
at the joining of the waiftband, Icfs by two inches on 
the double ; and in making, let your knecband be cut 
exact, lining it with a piece of brown holland to the 
fize. If they rife on the calf of the leg, cut the band 
one inch longer than your meafurc, and bear it on the 
ham in the under fide, which need not be hollowed in 
the ham, as for ftiort fmall-clothes. And in all ftocking 
web, filk or any other kind, you may bear on the waift- 
band according to the length of them both — and not 
the breeches ; which though diametrically oppofiie to 
the common practice in ufe for caftimere and all other 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 85 

kinds, yet we do affirm is pofitively right, and the true 
wayi proved and juftified by long experience, and which 
"will convince every practitioner on his firfl: effay, if he 
only ftrictly adhere to the rule here laid down, for 
making all kind of frame work. 



TIW TAYLOR^S INSTRUCTOR. 



Hqw to cut Silk frame Breeches. 



THE method of cutting and meafuring, as before 
defcribed, will anfwer in every refpect for worfted ones, 
with this exception, that as there is more elafticity in 
filk than in worfted, the true method is to cur them a 
quarter or half an inch lefs in every place of the width ; 
this you muft kxiow from your book of directions, if 
your cuftomer wants them tight, and three quarters of 
an inch longer in length. — Note, if they are to be lined, 
be fure you only faften them to the waiftband, round the 
top, and leave them quite loofe at the knees. But we 
think drawers are preferable, as they can be wafhcd 
occafionally ; but if the gentleman muft have linings, 
take the following inftructions. Cut them one inch 
longer than the meafure, and half an inch wider on the 
double. Give them plenty of ftride up within one inch 
of the top of the meafure, after the fame mode as was 
purfued in cutting the outfide, and cut the feat two 
inches wider than the outfide, and the fame in the 
length of your feat-feam, that they may anfwer the 
elafticity of the outfide. Cottpn linings or drawers 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 87 

require more ftride than any other kind in ufe, owing 
to the repulfion and contraction of the ItufF. If the 
lining be of dimity, follow the fame rule as in cutting 
cotton ones, which will anfwer the intended pur- 
pofe. 



88 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 



Rules for cutting frame Breeches for a corpulent man. 



FIRST, when you meafure a fat man, lay your 
meafure in the hollow of the groin, by the fide of the 
falldown, and extend it to the infide of the knee, and 
to the bottom of the legfeam, and mark the meafure. 

Secondly, lay it as near the hip bone as podible, 
and down the firing or the buckle on the outfide ; hav- 
ing made your mark, you need not be afhamed of 
meafuring this part twice ; becaufe there is no more 
difficulty in fitting a fat man than a thin one, if you be 
correct in taking his dimenfions ; but be very circum- 
fpect, in taking your front lengths ; be fiire your 
meafure goes up to the hollow under the belly, and not 
above ; as you can make a regular allowance in the ftufi' 
for the rife, but there are few men of this fiiape, who 
delire them high, as they find them uneafy in wearmg, 
owing to the weight and prcfTure of the belly, which 
bears them down from the hip. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. ^9 

Thirdly, for afcertaining the width, take your girth 
below the knee, above at the flit, and as far up the 
thigh as poffible. 

Fourthly, obferve well the length of the waiflband, 
as there are frequently grofs errors committed in this 
particular. Having proceeded fo far, and your piece 
being laid before you, and the objedl of the perfon before 
you, lay on your meafure to the different parts, and 
obferve, when cutting (if iilk or flocking worfted) that 
the length of the ftride mufl be the full length of the 
meafure from the groin under the belly to the bottom 
of the legfeam ; and alfo take notice, that in laying on 
your meafure, you will find in the making that the 
fides of the legfeam mufl be one inch longer than the 
bottom of the knee flit. This is neceffary in all fat 
men's breeches. In the next place, be fure to give 
them a good rifing on the hip, as much as four inches 
higher than the top of the falldown ; and in taking the 
length of the feat, lay your meafure on the point of the 
fork at the top or legfeam, and keep your finger on 
that, whilfl you extend it to the hip ; afterwards run 
it up to the featfeam one inch longer to the hip than it 
is from the fork ; which, if flrictly attended to, will fully 
accomplifh the intent of this awkward and difficult 
part of the bufinefs, 

M 



90 THE TAYLORS INSTRUCTOR. 



On the theory and practice ofhJack Florentine. 



AS thefe materials are of a very delicate nature, we 
hope the taylor will be particularly cautious, as an error 
committed in articles of great value may be very 
diftrefling, efpecially if they be returned, the lofs might 
be ferious to a poor tradefman. But to proceed : — 
Firfl meafure from the hip bone, making allowance 
above, for the rife ; and from thence down to below the 
cap of the knee, as defcribed in former directions ; then 
meafure very tightroundthe knee. — Your next meafure 
above at the flit muft be eafy : and alfo meafure eafy at 
the thick of the thigh, and round the fmall of the body 
for the waiftband. Obferve alfo, that if it be a tall 
man you are meafuring, two yards and a quarter of 
fiorentine will be required, and a quarter more, if they 
Ihould rife very high. 



THE TAYLOllS INSTRUCTOR. 91> 



Fractical directions to he ohjerved at the Cutting Boards 



FIRST, lay your meafure upon your piece, and mark 
out the place at the top for your pocket holes ; then 
mark down your falldown to the fork, and in marking 
this, bring it frraight down within four inches of the 
top of the legfeam, from which place turn up gradually 
according to the plate, and with regularity up to the 
fork for the ftride. — Afterwards, mark your legfeam as 
flraight as poffible to the knee ; then from the (idefeam, 
make them a quarter of an inch wider on the double of 
the fluff than the meafure all the way -up the thigh; 
for there is no ftretch or elaflicity in florentine. There- 
fore, you can place no dependence on any thing but 
exactnefs of the precepts propofed to facilitate your 
practice. Pleafe to obfcrve, that you mufl allow for the 
turning of the feams, as filk muft be fewed in this man- 
ner, to prevent ravelling on the edges. Turn in the 
knee under the facing of black glazed linen, fo alfo in 
the falldown and the top of the pockets, commonly 
called the frogmouths, you may face with any thing 
black. When you are ready for your holes, lay a fingle 
bar, and few it to the breeches, and gum them until 



92 THE TAYLOR'S iNSTRUCTOk. 

they arc in the iiifide of the hole, which will enable you 
to cut all your holes at once without tne fear of ravelling. 
If you cannot get gum, a little piece of bees' wax will 
anfwer the end. But take care and put but little on, as 
it is of a greafy nature. You muft rub it on the exaft 
length of the hole, with an iron, lapping it on the lide, 
and melting the wax upon it, and holding the double, 
rub it along the mark. 

If you have pieces, backflitch them, and afterwards 
flitch them down. Obfcrve further, when you put 
your waiftband on, be fure that you pitch them longer 
before than behind, fo that your waiftband from the 
hip to the front may be the longer half ; this will caufe 
your fall to fit well ; for an error in this part will incom- 
mode the fitting of the breeches as much as bad cutting. 
Alfo take care that your men do not follow the ufual 
practice of putting on the waifiband, (which they call 
half and halfj) all filk breeches mull be made very for- 
ward in the waiftband, half an inch after they are made 
up before the falldown fcam, elfe they will never fit 
completely, when buttoned. Obferve likewife, when you 
put on the fall buttons, to fet them on a quarter of an inch 
higher than the holes would fcem to require upon the 
waiftband ; the buttons to the pockets ftiould be a little on 
theftretch. With refpectto the buttons on the knees, let 
them all ftand below the holes at the bottom , and draw 
in the knee a little from the flit ; likewife the upper fide 
on the band over the k nee. — Be careful that you do not 
prefs them on the outlide, as it will injure the luftre of 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 93 

the filk. And further obferve, in the pitch of the 
pockets, that they lay forward, not flraight down the 
thigh, but projecting to the legfeam. Put on allyour 
ftays, few all your feams, and bade them with the 
greatell exactnefs ; this is a matter of great confequence 
to learners, for if in this ftate, they are exact to the 
meafure, and the other directions be ftrictly obferved, 
be affured they will fit the party with much nicety, and 
give perfect fatisfadlion. 

There are two defcriptions of men whom youno- 
practitioners find it very difficult to fit, either in filk or 
fiorentine. The one is he that is proportionate in all 
parts ; and the other is he that is fwag-bellyed, very tall 
with thin thighs. As the taylor can have no refourcc 
for the leaft error in the firetch or elafticity of the ftufF, 
the latter object, with the thin thighs, is more intol- 
erable than the former. But in order to fit him, take 
the following rule : cut out the breeches by the previous 
rule, refpecting the thighs ; thofe anfv/ering your 
meafuremenrs, ftrike your falldown, then your pockets, 
and from the place oppofite the fork, add a gradual 
fpring up to the hip, and as far above as they rife ; and 
having, by your meafure, made a regular line, flraight 
up to the top of the hip from a line at the thigh, you 
will find how much you have gained by your fpring ; 
and if it is not fo much, it mutt be full two inches, and 
the fame in cutting the under fide, and allow full three 
inches to be beared upon the waiftband. Do not make 
your feat fo round as that of a fat man ; for remember it 



U THE TAILOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

is not fo much in the feat (in this cafe) that the room 
is wanted, but round the body, the place of the waift- 
band. Let the legfeam be very tight, if the fluff 
Ihould be ribbed, let the ribs go ftraight down the 
thighs. When you make breeches of Weymouth filk, 
proceed in the fame manner as is directed for florentine. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR^ ^ 



Of Weymouth Silk Breeches^. 



THE beautiful texture of this very elegant article, fo 
fafhionable at prefent for breeches, requires that it be 
handled with great delicacy, and never ufed but upon 
the moft captivating figures, where grace is adorned 
with fymmetry and manly dignity ; in this cafe it gives 
brilliancy an additional luftre. The theory and practice 
of making this fort of breeches are exactly the fame as 
are obferved for the florcntine. It will therefore, be ne- 
ceflary for the learner to make himfelf particularly 
acquainted with thofe inftructions, both as to meafure- 
ment and the turning in of the feams, and every other 
direction there recommended. With refpect to the 
Itripes or ribs, if any there be, make ufe of the fame 
rules. This, if properly executed, will attradl a fmile 
of approbation from your employer, which will enhance 
the fatisfadion in your own breaft, and be more pleaiing 
than all the gratification that can be derived from flat- 
tery, where praife is not due. 



96 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR, 



Practical ohfervations on cutting and making Nankeen, 



NEXT to caHimere, we think nankeens for the fiim- 
mcr wear the moft agreeable, and perhaps for riding, 
at that feafon, fuperior to any thing in ufe. They are 
cool, eafy, and neat ; and when they are too much 
tinged with the toil of the day, they are eafily wafhed, 
and made as neat and clean as when juft brought from the 
hands of the taylor. Young practitioners mufl obferve, 
that this kind of garment muft be cut to the meafure, 
if there have not been previous orders, to cut them eafy. 
Sew all the feams with thread of that colour, as filk 
generally turns yellow by the repetition of wafning. 
Make the button holes of twift. We would alfo advife 
you to ftay them with Irilh linen, to prevent them 
from burfting on account of the thinnefs of the fluff. 
This will ftrengthen them much, and diminiOi their 
tendency to laceration or tearing. By turning your 
attention to the plate, you can fee the different modifi- 
cations in cutting the pantaloons with feet ; fliowing 
the turning of the tongue and foles. If f^rictly attended 
to, as to the manner of meafuring already given in thq 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. «7 

preceeding obfervations, you will find it will fuffice as 
a direction for all thofe articles, which at prefent are in 
fo much demand in this country. 

We recommend the patent Englifli nankeen, not only 
on account of the finenefs of its texture, but the deepnefs 
and durability of the colour, which will (land the pr^- 
cefs of waihing as well as that of India, 



N 



9S THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 



Some practical obfervatious on huff caffmere Breeches and 
Pantaloons — and on the method oj cutting them to fit neatly. 



FIRST, when jou have meafured according to the 
directions already given, cut them a quarter of an inch 
lefs on the double, as before obferved on cutting fingle 
milled cadimere. If breeches, the knee-bands mull be 
proportionate to the width. With refpect to other 
maxims requifite for the execution of thefe materials, 
we (hall refer our readers to the rudiments afcertained 
in the chapter of cadimere, before mentiond. We can- 
not pafs over this, without taking fome notice of the 
neatnefs of cadimere, when appropriated to the above 
purpofe. Breeches of this kind have a very neat 
appearance, and in our opinion, have a decided pre- 
ference to leather, both on account of their lightnefs and 
eafe. It is true, that leather is more durable; but then 
the former hold their fuperiority in regard to eafe and 
convenience, and will wadi like a fhirt. This gives 
them value in the eftimation of every gentleman who 
prefers their eafy elafticity to the buckram confinement 
of any fort of leather^ 



THE TAYLOR B INSTRUCTOR. 



CHAP. XI. 



f^lain andjiriped hair Plup, or hair Shag, as it is com^ 
monly called. 



THE many feafonable advantages refulting to the 
wearer from this excellent article in refpect of neatnefs, 
cicannefs, and durability, aftonifhes us much, that the 
wearing of it is not more falTiionable ; as it has every 
convenience that could excite a preference to the pur- 
chafer or wearer. Indeed there may be fome objections 
to it from the practice in ufe ; for we really think the 
trade are more unlkilful and farther from proficiency 
in this appendage of drefs, than in any thing we obferve 
in the ftreets. This may be owing to its difufe, it being 
too feldom met with in practice to fecure a proper 
attention ; for in the m.aking of breeches of plufh, 
the imagination feems to have entirely bid adieu to 
confiftency, and reafon in the trade. Nothing ever was 
more erroneous than a great deal of the practice in ufe. 
In order to cut them well, firft, having taken your 
meafurements, as in former examples, and the materials 



109 TJJ£ TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

being before you, take great care that you cut exactly 
to compafs your meafure ; for remember that the 
breeches, in every part, muft be Juftly cut to it after 
they are fevved together ; this will convince you of the 
neceility of making them half an inch longer, to pro- 
cure a natural eafe to the wearer. Be fure that you do 
not lofe fight of the drawing in plate VI. ; which, by 
infpection, will give you a clear idea of the mode and 
iTiape they ihould have to prove the effect, which will 
be confpicuous to the beholders. Make your legfeam 
ftraight, and when yon cut your infide, let it run the 
fame way as the ourdde, and avoid that egregious 
method of cutting the inlide to run up and the upper 
iide to run down, which from the reflection of the light 
feems as if the plufli were of two different colours. An 
error which is too common, and is frequently made by 
people of refpectability belonging to the trade. 

Be particular to leave two inches to be beared on the 
waiftbands in the top of the feat, and in making, few on 
privately a piece of tape or linen, down to the fpare- 
feam, and up the feat feam. Stay your flits well with 
linen, and be p^irticular, in bafting them together, that 
the fcams may be true and keep your left-hand thumb 
and finger tight and ftraight down, fo as to pitch the 
feam of the two fides closely together, with care, what 
the trade, generally calls driveiy. Thefe things being 
flrictly adhered to, your practice will be perfect. Re- 
member, that if the party muft have linings (we always 
recommend drawers, as they can be occafionally wafli- 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. iOl 

ed,) it fhould be advifable to have iliamie linings ; tor 
the (harp friction of the hair with other materials would 
loon rub out, and would always want mending. Take 
care, in lining the waiftband, that the leather turns over 
the top a quarter of an inch, to prevent injury to the 
ihirts by means of the friction. 

Take notice, that ftriped plufh muft be cut by the 
fame rule as all other ftriped fluff, with refpect to man- 
aging, the ftripes fo that they may run ftraight down 
the thigh, in the fame manner as the above direc- 
tions refpecting the cutting and making in every refpect» 



10? THE TAYLORS INSTRUCTOR. 



'The method of cutting Velveteen i with practUal ohfervations. 



VELVETEEN is as ferviceable and valuable a com- 
modity as can be fubftituted for winter wear. There is 
a richnefs in the look of it, added to its great utility, that 
will always give a diftinguilhing preferance to the choice 
of thofe who wifh to unite ftrength, beauty , and con^ 
v^nience together. The manner of meafuringand 
cutting thefe is the fame as the plufh ; only in the 
making up, be fure you feam them in the leg feams, 
falldown, and feat, with a firm loopftich, and canvafs 
them well in all the parts and tackings. If you are work- 
ing for a groom or a coachman, take care to give them 
an abundance of ftride, and cut them below the knee 
tothefpringingof the calf; and inftead of hollowing 
the ham, be^fure to make it ftraight, to avoid a common 
error too much practifed. 



rHE TAYLOR'S JNSTRUCTOI^ |QS 



Of Corduroy and Thickfet^ 



BOTH thefe articles, though different manufactures, 
are notwithftanding of the fame materials, and thofe 
who make a choice of the wearing, are fure to be fatisfied 
with them in point of duration. For though they are 
inferior to hair plufh, yet they are almoft equal to 
velveteen ; being as ufeful for riding, as they are for 
common wear in undrefs, and ferviceable in both. — 
When cut and made, they are likewife very neat, and 
deferve a ftrong recommendation from all taylors, when 
their opmions are afked. The manner of cutting and 
making: corduroy or thickfet, is the fajne as that fpoken 
of before for the velveteen. 



104 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 



Some practical ohfervations on Worjled fluff of all lind-; 



ALL worfled fluffs muH: be cut confiderably eafier 
than the meafure, owing to the necelTity there is of' 
turning in for the feams. The fize muft exceed the 
meafure by half an inch on the double. As we have 
faid fo much in former chapters, relative to the laying 
on of the meafure and cutting, and other maxims rela- 
tive to making, we think it needlefs to fay more in 
this place, as the work might otherwife extend beyond 
our intended limits. When we look forward to the mat- 
ter we have in contemplation to treat of, we will only 
■make this observation : that all the waiflbands come 
forward beyond the feam at the fpare, except when we 
nave faid to the contrary. With refpect to ftriped 
worfted, the fame rule muft be obferved for making 
the ftripes run ftraight. This will ferve, in all cafes, 
by having recourfe to the firft directions refpecting 
knit ribbed breeches. 




J'/,i/i,,l.:' I'lih" hii .Inl Oiufii \- irriapsltli. jSog. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. IC'5 



GHAR XII. 



So?ne practical ohfervations on Breeches zvithoui the 
accujiomed /earns. 



BEFORE we proceed in detail it is necellary to refer 
our readers to plate VII. and figure i. where they will 
find a true refemblance of a pair of breeches without 
legfeam or fidefeam, waiftband or kneeband feams, they 
being all left in the fluff, and being made to anfwer as 
well as thofe with feams. — Which we think much 
neater for any kind of ribbed fluff, either flocking or 
filk web — broad or narrow cloth or callimere, or any 
fluff that has the leaft elafticity in it, they fit fo neat to 
the thigh, and are in no danger of injury from the work- 
man's bad practice in the Teaming, which often caufes 
confulion from ignorance or negligence in this particu- 
lar, if the other parts are properly united. This 
method will be found to exceed in nicety any other 
point in the practice of making breeches for delicacy 
and complete fitting. We need, not fay any thing of 
O 



10(5 77//: Tjy IVOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

the mode of meafiiring, as we have faid enough in 
the precceding chapters that we have treated on, 
and given in previous cafes, will anfvver in every 
particular for thefe breeches. And we do not wonder 
if our pupils (liould be a little aftoniflied at the appear- 
ance of figure i. in the plate. However fanciful it may 
appear, we aflure them that this is a true refemblance, 
and the only genuine way to cut them. — When you 
have for example the fluff before you, fuch as flocking 
web or caflimere, which only runs half yard wide, it is 
impoffible to make them without feme of theaccuflomed 
feams, for if a feam more runs up the feat, that behind 
will be of little confequence, being quite out of fight. 
You mufl underfland that nothing but broad cloth will 
anfwer to make them with one feam to run up the feat 
and back parts of each thigh. Having flocking web 
orcafTunere, or anything of the fame breadth, mark 
down about fix inches from rhe edge for your fidefeam, 
and leave that to turn over to make part of the infide. 
Afterwards mark your leg feam — as if you were going 
to cut it at the mark, and add as much beyond that as 
may be necelTary to turn over ro meet the other part 
for the infide, and that will make the feam under 
the thigh all the way up. What is wanting you mufl 
piece out in the feat, till your feat is made out complete 
as if you had made both leg and fidefeams. There is 
this difference Ipetween this fort of breeches and others, 
that when you make your knee flit, after the manner 
of the plate, you mufl make your infide a little longer 
than in the turning over. You mufl put a piece down 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 107 

the ham to fet the buttons on, and mud cut your flit m 
the fame manner as in a flalh (leeve, and put the catch 
under, but fuppofethat it needs a very large one, as the 
trimming up of the feat drav.'s a large open place, as 
from figure i, to figure i, on the plate, and from letter 
^to letter/and down to letter i, as thofe points com- 
mand the power of the feat, they are left to give room 
to the elafticity of the feat. — For when figure i, is put 
to figure I, although they point downwards, yet 
the feat requires it, for the draft lies in the hip and. 
flride, confequently there muft be room left fomewhere, 
and hkewife when feamed up you will find that it 
exactly makes the hollowing of the ham true. There- 
fore, we aver that this maxim will anfwer. Cut the 
parts for the waiftband, no longer than the meafure, in 
any fort of materials : if of the elaftic kind, lefs by two 
inches on the double; when you cut the falldown, let it 
be as long as from letter b to letter/, then begin to turn 
up for the fork at letter d. And remember that the 
length of the waiftband will moftly anfwer from letter 
c at the hip bone, to letter d at the fork. When you cut 
the fall let it be as long as from letter a to letter ^, and 
put your fide welts and fall bearers to, putting a flay 
at &he lower part to few in with both feams, — And let 
your fall bearer extend as far from the fparefeam, as is 
defcribed in the plate. As this piece mufl anfwer for 
the front of the waiftbands, and always ought to be as 
far forward as we have drawn it in appearance on the 
plate. For on this depends the very certainty of the 



108 (77/E TAYLOR'S lySTRVCTOR. 

falldown fitting well. For if a waiftband is not forward 
enough, the falldown muft be difordered — this is an 
evil too frequently complained of; refulting entirely 
from bad practice, which taylors are as rcprehenfible 
for, as bad cutting. And when breeches are not well 
cut, they will certainly loofe their place upon the breech, 
either in the ad of fitting down, or walking. When 
badly made they will, without doubt, be drawn from 
their natural pofition, which caufes diftortion and 
difagreeable wrinkles. This verifies the old trite 
proverb among the trade, let fome men have ever 
fuch favorable opportunities for practice and inftruction, 
itill the dung fork is in their hands, and becomes them 
much better than either the needle or taylor's fheers. 
Finally, it will be nccefiary to leave a regular outlet, 
as upon the plate at letter e and letter e and letters a b 
and b at the top, for the waiftband part all round. 

N. B. Of the difl^erent letters defcribcd upon the 
plate ; letter c at the hip bone, to letter d at the knee. 
Letters b h the two points centre of the ham. Letters// 
on a ftraight line from the top of the falldown to 
letter/ at the thigh, and letter / on the line at the 
fpare feam fignifies where it ought to turn up to the 
fork at letter d. At the letters a and a fignifies the 
cut in for the fide welts and fallbearers. The lines 
defignatcd through the whole, will be a guide how to 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR, 109 

form the upper fide thigh upon the cloth, in the piece. 
The different lines, fuch as from the knee to the fork, 
and round to the fidefeam, figniiies the certainty of 
pitching the fork, and is defcribed fully in chapters 
preceding this. 



110 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 



CHAP. XIII. 



Some praclical ohjer-vations on the theory and practice of 
cutting and making Waiftcoats. 



WE will now endeavour to draw our fludents' 
attention, from the obfervations we formerly made 
concerning breeches and pantaloons ; and direct his 
view to the bcft and moft advantageous methods of 
cutting and making waiftcoats. Our obje(il in this 
part of the work, is to lay down rules by which the 
moft unenlightened perfon in the trade, will be enabled 
to avoid the crude and undigeftcd maxims, too common 
among many taylors, and be in pofTcfTion of a criterion, 
by which he may judge of the matter in queftion with 
cafe and perfpicuity. 

We have no doubt there are many Billy Beakies* who, 
having filled their coffers, by a long courfeof practice, 
may fmile at the idea of our detail mg rules for making 
waiftcoats ; perhaps they may confider them as puerile 

* Great men of the trade. 




PJ,il,ur'F,<h:'lHj„: {>,u;;, K- m'"J.„/>.v/e,,. ifloff. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. Ill 

and vain. They may congratulate themfelves, that 
fuccefs in trade is a complete evidenceof//^^/r abilities; 
and therefore, flatter themfelves, that they are above 
the n&td of inftruction. All that we have to requeft of 
thefe wifeacres is, that they would lay afide this delu- 
five pride, and fufpend their final judgment, until they 
have had recourfe to the fubjomed plates of waiftcoats; 
perhaps even a flight infpection may furniilithem with 
fome feafonable hints, and induce them to give our 
remarks an attentive perufal. ^ 

Probably fomx may affert, that they were acquainted 
v/ith the principles here laid down, long before they 
read our obfervations. To this affumption of merit, 
we v/ill make no objection. It will in no wife diminifii 
the falutary effects that will be derived by the unin- 
formed, for v^hofe benefit we chiefly labour. To thefe 
felf conceited gentlemen, (though vre are no lefs their 
friends,) we will fiiggeft a paffage from the facred 
volume, which, we think has fome bearing upon the 
matter in queftion, " The whole have noncedafa phyfuian" 
nor was it for the perfect that our book was written. 
But we have no doubt that there are many perfons, 
who will rejoice to find, that the myfteries of the 
bufmefs are explored ; and as it were, expofed to view, 
in a manner fo plain, that the meanefl: capacity can 
fully comprehend them. We care net for the envious 
affeverations of diilippointed men. Candour is the 
organ of knowledge ; as for fuch men they are beneath 
contempt. Oppofed to candour, are fpleen and fcur- 



11« THE TAYLOR'S /NSTRUCTaH. 

rility, which are fupported by envy; but those ought 
to be defpifed by every man, who is anxious to arrive 
at the truth. We acknowledge we have been prolix 
in our introductory obfervations. The envy and 
calumnies, invented by fome profeflbrs of the bufinefs, 
againft our work, have induced thefe obfervations. 
But we will now return from this digreflion, and proceed 
to point out the method of meafuring for a waiftcoat. 

First, having the perfon before you, lay your 
meafure at the top of the Ihoulder, down as low before 
as your employer may wifh. When this is done, put 
the meafure round the body in two feparate places, as, 
over the bread and the belly. If it be an old man, 
who wants it long, with fkirts, you may take a third 
meafure over the hip ; this will be all that is neceflary. 

When you have the materials before you, which you 
intend cutting, pleafe to open the book at plate VIII. of 
waiftcoats, and obferve well the figures, the modes, 
maxims and turnings of the different parts, to give a 
a better idea of the appearance of thofe different points, 
and the manner in which they mull bear upon each 
other before they are fewed or united : this will greatly 
aflift your fancy, when you lay on your meafure to 
mark for cutting your materials upon the true fcale. 
Be careful that it be not too round before in the fore- 
parts, and fee that your gorget is cut hollow at the 
neck — fpring it forward as ihe plate directs, upon which 



THE TAYLORS INSTRUCTOR. 113 

depends the chief art of fitting a waifteoat. Keep it 
forward to lay clofe to the neck, and it will go away 
gradually to make a rolling collar, which is very neat 
in the prefent ftate of fafhion. There is another mat- 
ter which requires fome confideration, and that is in the 
length of the back to the foreparts, from a on the back, 
to a on the foreparts. Obferve that the back mufl: be 
of the fameleangth as the foreparts, ftraight and eafy, 
and what you call clofing the back to the foreparts^ 
Take care that it anfwers the fame, which will totall) 
prevent the foreparts from driving up on the belly which 
is a general complaint, moftly caufed by the back's 
being cut too (hort for the foreparts, and the foreparts 
being cut round, two mod frequent errors which fhould, 
to infure fuccefs, be moll ftriclly guarded againft. In 
order to do this properly, pay ftricft attention to the 
delineations of the plates. Thefe poiTefs ail the 
requifites neceffary for complete fitting, proved and 
certified by reat experience, as mcontrovertable as dc- 
monftration itfelf; therefore, the learner cannot pay 
too great a refpect to the fbape and manner of thofe 
drawings, to ripen and fofler his faint ideas. 

When you are making filk waiftcoats, remember 
the method of gumming the holes (with a little bees' 
wax) as obferved in the filk florentine breeches^ 



114 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

to flick and hold them together, by which you make 
and work your holes without danger of ravelling ; and 
it will be better to make uie of glazed linen, inftead 
of buckram, under the lacemgs of the buttons and 
l^oles. 



THE TAYLORS INSTRVCTOB. 115 



Of round collared Waiftcoats^^ 



THERE is nothing very particular in the execution 
of this waiftcoat, except the common obfervation of 
feeing that your back is of a right length for the fore- 
parts, and your cape cut as the plate directs: Should 
you have a fmall quantity of materials, as the common 
quantity made ufe of for other waiftcoats, it will be 
too fmall for broad breafts and round collars. There- 
fore, to aflift our pupil, we will requeft him to cut a 
true Ihape of the linings in the form of the foreparts, as 
this will enable him to make the beft of his out- 
fide, and for the length of the back, have recourfe to 
the plate, and draw the neceifary inferences, from thaC 
fimilitude, relative to the making of double breafled 
waiftcoats. We recommend in all thofe to make holes 
down both fide^j for the advantage of the wearer^ left 
any unforfeen accident ihould happen from dirt and 
the days' pleafure of the wearer, it fhould be fpoiled^ 
owing to his not having an oportunity of changing the 
other fide of the breaft. Set on the buttons at the mark 
upon the plate, at the fide of the welts of the pockets, 
up to figure 6. ; and obf«trve that your welts are cut 
according to the right way of the fhiff, and not as the 



116 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

flop vefts moftly are. Take care, in the cutting of one 
of thefe waiftcoats, that you proceed as for thofe with 
one lapell — that you have fufficient room, in the breaft. 
Do not cut the armholes or fcye too deep on the bread, 
but keep them eafy and at the fame time clofe. It is 
a great error, to cut any garment too narrow at the 
bread. Eafe and freedom are moi-e requilite here than 
in any other part of the body ; and therefore, this direc- 
tion cannot be too ftrictly adhered to. In cutting the 
cape, to be added to the place of the lapell, fee that it 
falls regularly, and in one eafy manner to the {houlder, 
for the leaft error arifing here, will incommode the 
fitting of the whole waiftcoat. The reader will find it 
of advantage carefully to infped: the plates, as well as 
thofe before fpoken of, and thofe which will hereafter be 
mentioned, for in the obfervations to be made in the 
remaining part of this work, they will be taken as our 
models. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 117 



Of the dotihle hreafted IVaiJfcoais, in plate Fill, figure i 



THIS plate requires fome coniideration, for though 
it is the general plan of moft in \vear; there are diffi- 
culties in its formation. Therfore, our ftudent cannot 
too clofely adhere to the plate. He ought to be par- 
ticularly careful, to make the lapell fit neatly, and 
obferve that the collar fits fnug round the neck ; and 
be careful that the length of the front and back parts be 
alike. Obferve the cut of the neck and the armholes, it 
being a particular point j and turn it out as at the neck, 
and make the back to anfwer the fame. By being 
thus done, when the neck is made up, we pronounce 
it will fit clofe all round. That your collar may anfwer 
your forepart, cut the collar as defcribed in the plate; 
this will aHuredly anfwer the purpose, and fit peculiarly 
neat and fmart. Be careful never to cut a flraight 
collar to any waiflcoat; for this method will never 
anfwer any purpofe, but be a chief inftrument of 
fruflrating the well defigned cutting and fitting of the 
whole waiftcoat, 



118 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 



Practical ohjervations continued onfingle breajied Waificoats 
in plate VIIL 



FIGURE 2 is a lingle breaded waiftcoat, and mull 
not be cut too round in the front part of the bread, un- 
lefs it be for a man who has a large belly, and who may 
wilh it long. Nor muft the (boulder fall too far back, 
but muft be cut as ftraight as poiTible ; only allowing a 
proper round for the breaft and belly. Be careful that 
the {houlder is kept in( lining to the neck, in the man- 
ner of the figure, and let it be cut with a gradual hollow 
in the gorget, and the point of the back. Let the back 
be of the fame length as the forepart : this will make it 
fit clofe and ftraight. The great difficulty in cutting 
fingle breafted waiftcoats, refults from not cutting the 
{boulders ftraight — for if you pitch the ftioulder too far 
backward, in the cutting, it will have a difagreeable 
cffevfl; for when it is opened and unbuttoned, it will 
fall away from the body ; when buttoned, it will be all 
in puckers before, and of courfe fall away from the 
neck behind. While we are upon this fubjedl, if we 
might not be thought to digrefs, we would offer a few- 
hints towards rediifying any faults made in waiftcoats. 
by inexperience, as before mentioned. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 119 

First, feparate the back from the forepart, and 
when laid on your cutting board, piece in the neck, as 
ufual at the gorget, about two or three inches, and 
taper it to a point in the middle of the gorget and under 
the arm at the top of the fidefeam, about the fame. 
This will prevent the fcye from being too large, and 
you muft cut off at the fhoulder, as much as you piece 
at the neck, we mean down the fcye from the point at 
the fhoulder feam, then take the back and piece it to 
the length of the foreparts, and clofe it again to the 
meafure. This done, cut your collar after the manner 
of figure 3, in plate VIII.; and when the different 
parts are properly adjulled, you will find the waiftcoat 
fit equal to your molt fanguine expectation. This is 
the proper method of rectifying errors in thin men's 
waiftcoats, but when cut for fat men, we muft purfuc 
other methods, which will be fhown hereafter. 



120 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 



Some practical obfervatms on Waijicoats with flaps. 



THOUGH this mqihod of cutting a waiftcoat is not 
much in vogue at prefent, we would not be afloniihed, 
if the fluctuating rage of fafhion Ihould fuggert a change 
from the prefent mode, to that of waiftcoats with flaps, 
ur any thing equally ridiculous ; as they were worn with 
confiderable eclat^ for a number of years. Fafliion is 
very capricious ; fo much fo, that it is impofllble for us 
to forefee, to what folly fhe will next lead us, or to what 
abfurdity fhe will next be efpoufed. In her movements 
Ihe is as unliable as the wind. Having once fetour 
fancies afloat, Ihe leads us through the wild mazes of 
variety without our being able to refifl:. With thefc 
operations, the taylor has nothing to do. His bufinefs 
is to wait the refult, and obferve what eflfedl it has upon 
the fafcinated myriads. Forthefe reafons, we think it 
neceflliry, for the benefit of our country friends and 
readers, who moflly retain the former mode of wearing 
flaps, to give a flcetch of the forepart, which may be 
feen in the plate VIII. figure 3. Refpecting the cut- 
ting or making, nothing further need be Hiid than what 
was fuggefted, in refpect to the Angle breafted waifl:- 



TBE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 121 

€oats, not to cut them too round before ; nor muft the 
Ihoulders fall too far back, but be as ftraight as poffiblci 
only allowing a proper round for the bread and belly. 
Be careful that the fhoulder is kept inclining to the 
neck, in the manner of plate VIII. and it be cut hollow 
with a gradual fweep, and turn that point to the 
neck. Let the back be of the fame length as the 
foreparts, as the plate dired:s. This will compel it to 
fit ftraight and clofe^ 



122 THE TAYLOR S INHTEICTOR. 



Some practical ob/ervations on JVaiJicoats zvilhJJeeves. 



THOUGH waifVcoats of this fort are fcarccly worn 
by any perfons except hoftlers, poftillions, grooms, and 
old men, jet they require a particular kind of practice, 
and much care in the formation ; for we ufually fee as 
much defect in thofe waiftcoats as in any part of the 
bufinefs. Therefore, that our learner may avoid error 
in this matter, we hope he will pay great attention to 
the following rules for meafaring, cutting, and making, 
as the only means of accomplifhing this arduous talk. 
It is true, that taylors get through this bufmefs, with 
the ufeofarm puffs, and puckered redundancies; with 
difagreeable tightnefs in the flioulders, and other difa- 
greeable defects. But this bungling comes far Ihort of 
the maftery that is requilite to givea perfonfatisfaction, 
fo that he may do his bufinefs with pleafure, well 
knowing that his practice will afford him praife, and 
give his employer great fatisfaction. 

To meafure for a waiftcoat with fleeves, lay your 
meafure firfl from the top of the flioulder before, down 
to the bottom, or as low as the party may require it : 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 123 

for, remember that in fome things your employer will 
have a pre-eminence of choice; though after you have 
received his directions, you can always exercife your 
own judgment by uniting propriety with their requefts. 

Secondly, meafure from the top of the back, down 
to the bottom behind ; by this the length will be obtain- 
ed to a certainty. 

Thirdly, meafure from the back feam behind, half 
acrofs the fhoulder, and nick the meafure for one half 
of the back. In meafuring for the length of the fleeve 
fee that the party holds his elbow level with the 
fhoulder, at the elbow joint, make a nick, and extend 
the meafure as near the hand as your cuftomer may 
require for the length of the fleeve, and mark it. Then 
meafure round the arm at the top, and alfo at the elbow 
and wrift. Afterwards, meafure round the breafi and 
belly, and half acrofs the breafb if it be fingle bi-eafied. 
Be careful that your marks and meafuresbe diflinct and 
correct, when you cut out the waiftcoat ; confider well 
the ftufF you are to make it of, and do not lofe light of 
the inftructions already given refpecting the nature of 
the materials ; their elaflicity, or otherpeculiar qualities. 
If the waiftcoat is for a perfon in any bufinefs where 
great exercife is required, confider well the intent, 
and give a little latitude on account of the eafe required 
in fuch cafes ; for though we give you exact rules how 
to proceed, there will always be room enough to exer- 
cife your own abilities. If the waiftcoat be of the fuftian 
kind, cut it acrofs the fhoulders half an inch longer than 



124 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

the meafure on both fides, in order that it may be one 
inch broader acrofs the back ; which mull: be cut one 
inch longer than your meafure ; and in cutting the fore- 
parts, have recourfe to the back, and fee that it anfwers 
as before. Let your foreparts run clofe up under the 
arm ; for that will give great room to the fleeve, and 
eradicate puffs. Obferve well your fleeve, for in this 
there is great nicety in giving plenty of fleeve top, and 
fpring it out in the forearm feam at the top: for 
remember, the farther you fpring your fore feam out at 
the top, the more room you give for the extenfion of 
the arm. By adhering to this direction, you \vill pro- 
cure freedom and eafe to the wearer, without the leafl; 
reftraint or confinement whatfoever, this is the general 
fault fo frequently complained of; and no attention 
Ihould be omitted to rectify fo grofs an abufe, by every 
practitioner of the art. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 125 



Continuation of practical obfervations on fVaiftcoatsforfal men* 



THE great protuberance of the belly of fat men 
requires care in the application, anc it would be well 
for all men of little practice, to digeft well the method 
we are about to lay down. The difficulty ariiino from 
irregular figures fhould excite attention in the work- 
men. They ought to be well informed of the intended 
purpofe, and the means required to produce thefe 
effeds. When they have attained a thorough know- 
ledge of this practice, they will be adequate to the 
undertaking ; for in thefe as well as in regular bufinefs 
and in well formed figures of men, the practice will be 
agreeable to the theory. In fitting a fat man, the 
greatefl difficulty lies in fingle breafted waiftcoats. 
The great prominence of belly caufes fo much more 
width, at that place, than at the breaft, or below at the 
hip, that you will find confiderable difficulty in the reg- 
ular falling to the breaft, as well in continually hiding 
the linen between the waifiband of the breeches, and 
the bottom of the waiftcoat, owing to the tendency of 



12© THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

the waiftcoat to rife upon the belly, which is very indel- 
icate, and (liould be guarded againft with the moft 
fcrupulous care, Obferve in taking meafure round the 
belly, that it is put in a level direction ; for, as you lay 
the meafure ftraight acrofs upon the cloth, either the 
riiingorthe falling of your hand will caufe an addition 
to the width. Meafure the party as high as you can 
under the arm ; afterwards the belly and hips, which 
muft be proceeded for accordingly. Nothing can be 
more fliameful than the riling of the waiftcoat upon the 
belly, for want of properly fitting the body. A great 
inducement to our undertaking this treatife, has been 
to remedy this as well as other abominable errors to the 
fhame of the trade, which fhow nothing but inatten- 
tion and poverty of genius. Obferve, when you take 
the length, it will be neceflary to lay on the meafure 
twice. — Firft, from the fhoulder to the hollow of the 
bread:, and mark the meafure, then down to the bottom 
of the waiftcoat — afterwards take a meafure all down 
the buttoning as low as the intended length. To the 
learner it may not be amifs, to meafure the length of 
the back. Though this may not be a cuftom of the 
trade, we advise it, as fat men are fo fhort behind and 
fo long before, it will be a means of giving a better 
idea of the fize of the body, and from a proper limili- 
tude of the fliape or the waiftcoat to fit the objed:. 
In order to make this matter more intelligible to the 
mind of our ftudents, we would advife them to have re- 
courfe to fome of the figures on the plate. When you cut 
from the mark at the hoiiovv of the breaft, be cautious 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 127 

to rife gradually for the protuberance of the belly, and 
neatly round and fall in at the bottom ; for oe affured, 
the rules here laid down are not the premifes of uncer- 
tain fpeculation, but are fanctioned by the refult of well 
earned experience. Take care that the fide feam be 
fliort enough for the hind part, in proportion to the 
length of the foreparts. Some aheration is requifire, 
as to its fitting well about the neck, to prevent its 
falhng away towards the fhoulder, a thing very comx- 
mon m fat men's waiftcoats. Even fo ridiculous are 
fome made, that you may fee their fliirt halfway to 
the ftioulder point. Nay fo great is the abufe, that 
even the buttoning of the coat can hardly hide the no- 
torious fault. However, in order to prevent this excef- 
five blunder in future, pay particular attention to the 
following directions. Firft, cut your forepart fhoulder 
ftraight, inclining forward ; for that of itfelf is a great 
inducement to fitting well. It is a moft flagrant error 
to let the flioulders fall too far back. Likewife, in cut- 
ting the forepart, be fure to leave it high enough 
under the arm at the fide feam, and fmk or hollov*' it 
gradually. Our next remark is refpecting the backs 
and collar. Obferve that the backs be cut exactly to 
the fide feam, and anfvver to the forepart; for notwith- 
ftanding the fliortnefs of the backs for a fat man, they 
muft be made to agree in the length. Cut your collar 
round at the bottom, and flraight at the top. With re- 
fpect to the height at the neck, you mufl be ruled hy the 
wifh of your cuflomer ; and in making your mark for the 
pockets, place it as high as the mark on thcplate, making 



128 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

the waiftcoat, after being cut with great nicety, draw it 
in a little over the belly ; and likewife in the hollow part 
of the breaft. Note, if the waiftcoat (hould be filk or any 
kind of florentine that will ravel in the edge, wet and rub 
gum on the holes : this will contract and keep your ftufF 
from ravelling, and be fure for this kind of ftufF to ufc 
no buckram. If you ftrictly adhere to this, you will cer- 
tainly accomplifti the bufinefs to your own fatisfaction* 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR 129 



Continuation on old mens Waijicoal: 



OUR learner will obferve the very partisalar attention 
that is requifite in all old mens' waiftcoatSj as well as in 
other appendages of drefs, in order to prevent the com- 
mon practice of fitting their bodies fo irregularly and 
prepofteroufly. For, though things may be well con- 
ceived, and neatly executed, they will not always have 
that ftriking efFecl that clothes will have upon more 
agreeable figures, or nien of genteel addrefs. There is 
a certain awkwardnefs in heavy men, that when they 
move, diforders the very econom.y ofdrcfs. Therefore, 
in order to guard againfl this as much as poffible, take 
the following rules : meafure firfl from the fhoulder xo 
the hollow of the breaft, and mark the meafure ; and 
then to the bottom of the waiflcoat. Next meaflire down 
the middle, from the neck to the place intended for the 
length before, and meafure the length of the back, 
(though not a common practice) for by this meafure 
you will fully difcover the fhortncfs of the back, and be 
enabled better to adjuft it to the front or forepart. In 



130 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

nieafuring round, firft at the Ijreaft, as near under the , 
arms as poffible, and afterwards at the belly, put your \ 
incifure exactly level round ; for either holdine up or 
down your hands, will increafe the breadth, which will 
deceive you when you lay your meafure acrofs the cloth, 
laftly meafure below the belly at the hips. This will 
be all that is necelTary. But before you begin to cut, 
have recourfe to plate VIII. and figure 3, and when you 
have digerted well this figure, adapt its proportion, as 
nearly as poflible to the fcale and meafurement you 
have taken, only diminilli on the back m propor- 
tion to the prominence of the belly. Keep this in your 
mind continually as a pattern or direction, and take the 
mofl particular care to cut the point from inclining 
forward ; for fhould it lean off, in this part, it will lie 
off the neck behind, and will be drawn mod difagreea- 
bly. This is a rule that cannot be difpenfed with. 
For this, and cutting the collar, and making the fall of the 
belly below the breaft, are all maters of ferious confide- 
ration, and fhould influence the taylor's care to provide 
againfi: them. Nothing gives a gentleman a more 
difagreeable appearance than a waiftcoat that does not 
fit well round the neck ; and it is here, that moft er- 
rors are committed. Therefore, we muft once more 
begour ftudent.to be circumfpect and aflimulate his 
collar to the drawings of the collar upon plate VIII. at 
figure 3. Obferve, that the back muft have its pro- 
portion of length ; for, however ftiort the back, it 
muft be made to anfwer the foreparts. And pleafe to 
obferve that in cutting the forepart, you leave it high 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 131 

enough under the arm, as at the clofing of the backs. 
If the vvaiftcoat is ftrlped, let your welt run with the 
ftripe of the ftuff. In order to make it fit fnugly round 
the bottom, draw it in with the flitches, and take a hot 
iron, and by preffing it a little you will compel it to fit 
clofely. Be careful alfo in cloQng on thofe kinds, if 
double breafled, to lay your meafure near half way 
between the edge of the forepart and the buttons, for 
fhould you follow the common method of half and half, 
you will too much lighten and narrow it. Therefore 
in this cafe you muft eafe a little in the meafure, for 
irregular figures. With regard to the flaps of the 
pocket, a fingle view of the plate, w'ill be fufficient to 
dire(5l him how to cut it. The tafie of the times, in 
this article, as well as the cut of the fkirts, will always 
be a guide to his genius, and prompt him to a degree 
of neatncfs, which will give a pleafing turn to the whole 
waiftcoat. 

The next thing that comes under our notice, is the 
figure of a waifl:coat with a round collar, a fafhion 
that has been the rage fome years back ; and may come 
in vogue again, but we think cannot be of long dura- 
tion. The idea was borrowed from great coats, the 
collars of which were made in this manner, about 
twenty feven years ago. But there was an inconvenience 
attending them, which (hortened their duration. The 
waiftcoats of this fafiiion, in our opinion, are quite as 
reprehenfible as the great coats ; for they are not only 
inelegant, but uncouth and clumfy, and at all events^ 



132 THE TAYLOIVS INSTRUCTOR. 

fhould be difcouraged by fat men ; for they help to 
throw an impednnent in the very place where it (hould 
be mod avoided : viz. in the neck, where all men of 
this denomination are particularly fhort. In ftricl 
regard to elegance and his own appearance, a fat man 
fiiould wear no collar at all, except rhofe that (land up, 
for thofe help to lengthen the neck, and to figures thus 
loaded v/ith fieiliy flioulders, have the beft and moft 
plealing effects ; much better than any turndowns or 
other fubftitutes, which feem only to be invented to 
hide the difa^reeablenefs of long; necks ; in which cafe, 
they have their ufes, and as they have been long in 
vogue, and have been otherwife fanctioned by cuftom, 
we lliall let them float down the flream of time, till 
they link and die unnoticed, like many other once 
brilliant appendages, that have had their day, though 
now no more. But perhaps time, or the whim of fome 
great refcarcber, may bring them into life and fafhion 
once more. As fome gentlem.en, however may choofe 
10 hold up their confequence, and lave them from 
oblivion, we fliall defire our pupil to have recourfe 
to plate VIII. and figure 2, which upon infpection, will 
lliow them the very cut and femblance of their propor- 
tion. With regard to meafuring for thofe, follow the 
prccedingobfervations, with this further remark ; that 
for a round collared waificoat take care to give it plenty 
of fprirg in the cape at figure 4, and plate VIII. This 
corner mnft be cut and fprung as much as the fall of the 
flioulders may require, only be fure your back and 
Ihoulders anfwer each other, and when you make it up. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 133 

take care and abide by the rules laid down in the plate. 
The great difference between the (houlders and top of 
the buttons, and in like manner where the buttons are 
fet on from the front of the breaft ; in order to 
lit neat, remember that a man with a large belly requires 
the buttons fet round according to the prominency of 
belly. With refpectto the cut of the flcirts, you fliouid 
always endeavour to follow the fafliion that fanctlons 
themanner of cutting them with a gracefulnefs that 
may add beauty to thefinifhingof the waidcoats. 



134 THE TAYLOR'S IlYSTRUCTOR. 



Practical Obfervations. 



THE different figures upon this plate naturally 
fuggeft a few additional remarks. Every perfon not 
thoroughly acquainted, ought to pay the moft lludious 
attention to the figures, cuts, turns and fcyes, and 
carefully compare the plate with the defcriptions. By 
this means, he may become acquainted with effects 
produced, with the caufes which produced them, and 
the maxims they are intended to illuflrate. In perfons 
who are not thorougnly acquainted with the general 
outlines of the bulinefs, (though in other refpects men 
of genius,) there is a modefly or diffidence, which can- 
not be overcome, except by the polTefHon of rules 
amounting almofl to abfolute certainty. In the fore- 
going obfervations we have endeavoured to lay down 
rules, which, if ftrictly adhered to, will inevitably an- 
fwer this important purpofe. How far we have fuc- 
ceeded is not for us to determine. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 135 



CHAP. XIV. 



A fe"j) theoretical and practical ohfervations on Boys' and 
Childrens* clothes ^ both offirft andfecondfize. 



NOTWITHSTANDING many perfons whofe 
knowledge of the bufinefs is very fuperficial and lisnitted, 
have often undertaken to cenfure and ftigmatife pro- 
feflbrs of the art, concerning thofe fmall, but neceflary 
garments ; alledging that there is little time or trouble 
fpent in the execution of them. — And hence have arofe 
many difputes and contentions refpecting the bills 
rendered for making of them, fo that many excellent 
mechanics have lofl the cuftom of whole families on 
this account. But there is one thing certain, and thofe 
of the trade who have been moft in the habit of making 
childrens* clothes, will no doubt, readily aflent to the 
affertion, that there is lefs compenfation for the labours 
bellowed on them, than any other article of drefs ; and 
is an undeniable proof, that individuals who thus treat 
' eir taylor, are unreafonable in their conclufion, and 



136 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

would not (if in their power) pay a rcafonable price for 
any other articles of drefs they might ftand in need of. 
As there is no article of drefs more difficult ortrouble- 
fome to make, and cut, than thofe little affairs ; io 
there is none difplays a taylor's tafteand ingenuity more, 
and of courfe, ought to entitle the maker to the credit 
due from the complete execution thereof. It is well 
known by the trade in general, that there is as much 
diverlity, change, and tafte, difplaycd throughout this 
little field of fafliion, as in the more enlightened 
circles of fociety, and the time and labour beftowed 
thereon ought rather to increafe, than diminifh the 
price of making. And parents that love their off- 
fpring, and take pleafure in beholding them in their 
infantile drefs, fnould not fuffer their curiofity to abate, 
when their children increafe in ftatute, and years, but 
fliould continue to encourage their tradefman, by an 
additional compenfation, to adorn and fet forth the 
beauties of their children by handfome made clothes. 

In meafuring for jacket and trowfers, fuch as defcrib- 
cd in plate VII. figure 2 and 3, lay the meafure from 
the top down to where the waift buttons are placed. 
Then to the bottom of the fl<.irt, and for the length of 
the trowfers, begin about two inches below the armpit, 
and to the fnoe, or ancle bone ; next round the breaft 
which will anfvver both for the width of the jacket, and 
the trowfers at the top. Nextacrofs the back and 
down to the elbow, and down to the hand, twice round 
the arm, and the like number of times round the thigh 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. ISI" 

•r leg will be fufficient. But when about to cut, juft 
caft your eye on the plate at figures 2 and 3, when you 
will find the back is cut without a feam, and the fore- 
part according to our regular fyftem marked out by the 
line direct firom the point ot the Ihoulder to the plait 
at the bottom, as this m every inftance muft be follow- 
ed ; we highly recomrriend this method of making 
children's drefs, as nothing has come under our obferva- 
tion that looks neater. They can be made as fancy may 
diredt, with one or three rows of buttons, a button hole 
left in each of the fidefeams, and two on each forepart 
between that and the breafl-, which will anfwer to keep 
the trowfers up. The fall bearer comes up to the top, 
and forms the waiftband at the front, the pocket is put 
in the lidefeam about two inches from the top, or if 
your cuftomer would prefer them without a fall, the 
buttons, fay five or fix in number, may be put on the 
iidefeam, in this cafe the pockets may be put in with 
a welt like a waiftcoat pocket acrofs the trowfers, about 
three inches from the top. We have feen light dragoon 
jackets, made upon a fmall fcale for little boys, whofe 
parents took delight in cultivating a military fpirit> 
where they would form a little company, marchingrank 
and file, and making a handfome appearance with their 
fwords and helmets* This occurs but feldom, as tlie 
expence and trouble incurred thereby is fo great, few 
parents chufe to gratify their children in this refpect, 
and in indeed taylors need not covet this kind of work 
Unlefs they are well paid for it, as fcarcely any journey- 
man is willing to have any thing to do with them. 



138 THE TAYLOR' S INSTRUCTOR. 

The next form on plate VII. %. 4 and 5, is a round- 
about jacket, the trowfers button over the jacket and 
the holes are put on the waiftband or upper pan. BuC 
we recommend them to be cut without waiftbands 
entirely, as it looks much neater to have them all in 
one piece, about fix button holes may be made, mark- 
ed round. In cutting leave the upper and under fide 
of the fame height at the top. The feat is to be made 
rather full in the feat feam, down to within three inches 
of the fork. To be more explicit, do not hollow them 
in the fear as you do the fpare feam, but in a firaight 
line from within three mches of the fork, up to the top, 
equal with the upper fide. By this means, fufhcient 
room will be left for the feat. The fame meafure may 
be taken as for thofe laft mentioned with this exception, 
you mufl meafure down the back, as the foregoing 
have fmall fkirts, thele have none, but are quite 
round. We have often cut this kind without back or 
lidefeams, which fitted equally well. We have given 
but two forms of this kind of children's jackets, on the 
plate. We had to crowd the difl^erent parts of figures, 
of much more impor(ance on the plate, and we think 
thcfemay fufhce, for the fecond and third fize of children; 
we recommend fkirted coatees and trowfers ; this is more 
becoming for boys of nme years old and upwards. As 
we havedefcanted fo largely onmeafuring in the different 
fcciions of this work, we think it unneceflary hereto 
fay any thing farther on this fubjed, only follow the 
directions given, and examine the joints and fymmetry 
of the boy, or child you are meafuring, and you may 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 139 

follow the formation of nature in them in the fame man- 
ner as larger fizes, and you will find this little nurfery 
of fafhion worthy of your greateft care and attention, 
and experience in cutting and making thofe and becom- 
ing a mafterpiece at them. It will be a kind of prelude 
to ripen and facilitate your growing ideas in the pre- 
formance of dill brighter difplays of (kill in your pro- 
feilion; fothat the trade you have devoted a portion of 
your time to acquire, may not only bring you through 
life comfortably, but in like manner give celebrity to 
your names, in your own day ; and hand down to pof- 
terity unequivocal proof of your abilities and ufefulnefs 
ip fociety. 



I4Q THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOlt. 



CHAP. XV. 



Conclufion. 



SOME of the preceding pieces, it muft be acknow- 
ledged, are of a very curious nature, and worth no 
perfon's notice, but thofe following the trade. This is 
a fpecies of writing leaft fufceptible of the graces, which 
embellifli compofition ; or rather is mofl: deftitute of 
the attractions whieh engage attention and create 
delight. Yet we have fometimes thought, that it is 
not a moral impoflibility, to make even the ftern face of 
controverfy wear afmile — and even reap fonie valuable 
fruit from the rugged furrows of difputation. But tofoft- 
en any afperities that might be introduced into any part 
of the work, views of the trade are interfperfed; fo that 
if the former would carry the appearance of any thing 
rude, there may be fome agreeable openings and light- 
fome views, to admit a profpcct of the bufinefs, which 
is almoft arrayed in its own peculiar phrafes, and never 
fails to produce its effects on the minds of thofe who 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 141 

have a delire of becoming its advocates. The authors 
confefs a pecuhar fondnefs for the trade ; it is not at all 
improbable but their views, on this topic may be found 
to diffufe fome knowledge, and the defcriptions to have 
fome (hare of merit. It is hoped however that the 
reader will indulge them in this favorite foible, if any 
Ihould feel the fame prevailing pafiion for the benefit of 
the trade. It is pollible, thefe perfons may be inclined 
not only to excufe, but approve the fault, and take part 
with the lover, even in oppofition to the critic. 

Farther to diverfify the piece, the various (ketches 
of preceding falhions are introduced, eafy to be under- 
ftood, and calculated to entertain the imagination, as 
well as improve the mind ; more particularly to difplay 
the beneficent defign of the various appurtenances and 
numberlefs drefles ; neither are thefe remarks altogether 
foreign to the main point, but as far as the curiofities 
of them may comport and ferve the general end. 

In the courfe of this work, we dare not fuppofe, that 
we have difcuffed all the principles that might or can 
be illuflrated, or fagacity might devife, and perhaps 
fophiftry urge. Perhaps the authors of this work 
have not removed all the fcruples which awaken 
prejudice, or embarrafs truth ; this however we may 
venture to aflert, that we have met with no conliderablc 
objections, which are not either expreflly anfwered, or 
virtually refuted, in the preceding chapters ; and 
though we lliould neither fatisfy, nor lilence the gain- 



142 THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

fayer, we Ihall think our endeavours happily employed, 
if thofe principles may throw light upon the dim 
apprehenfions, cftablifli the wavering ideas, or be a 
barrier againft falfe fyftems. 

If any fhould burlefque or ridicule thefe principles 
laid down, we fliall only remark, that it will be advi- 
fable for them to ftrive to commence focieties, for prOr 
mulgating any knowledge in the bufinefs to pofterity, 
(as every generation muft fpeak and think for itfelf,) 
and not let their knowledge die along with them. The 
way is now trodden over, and the beaten path is before 
them ; if they cannot follow in this way, we will be glad 
to fee them take a better, and lead the ignorant into it. 
Should any, in the fpirit of decency and candour, either 
ilart new, or rcvife old objections, we doubt not but 
they will receive both a due examination, and a proper 
reply. .As the practice and theory in thefe chapters, 
enter into the very effenceof the bufinefs, and conftitute 
the very glory of our boafted fyftem, it can never want 
a fucceflion of advocates, fo long as the trade is in the 
fame ftate in fociety ; for our parts, we mean to retire 
from any thing of a controverfial nature. But in any 
thing that has the leafl tendency for the benefit of the 
trade, we fhall embark as foon as called, and give our 
opinions freely to our fellow labourers, in the purfuit 
of knowledge. Indeed, there muft be great credit given 
to many taylors in the United States, for the manifef- 
tationtheyhavegiven in bringing the bufinefs to the (late 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR, 1*3 

in which it is at prefent ; particularly Meffrs. Watfon^ 
Smikyy &c. of Philadelphia, than whom as conductors of 
the bufinefs, for fome years pall — there has been none 
of greater merit ; and none that- has gone before them on 
the continent, has ever carried it on with the fame 
merited approbation. But we ftill inlift upon the great 
neceflity of fomething, to be adopted, among men of 
the bufinefs, for the further invefligation of the princi- 
ples of the trade ; that fociety, not only in this ^w, 
but hereafter, may be partakers therein ; and (hould any 
thing be urged forcible enough to overthrow our boafted 
fyfiem, in the preceding pages of this v»^ork ; or detect 
any miftakes, the trade may depend upon feeing a free 
and undiffembled retraction. We Ihall look upon it 
as a duty to ourfelves and our readers, to acknowledge 
the error, as it is one thing to be filent, and another to 
be obftinate. As we fliall inflexibly adhere to the firft, 
we would with equal fteadinefs renounce the lafl. 
Though we withdraw from the firife of pens, and of 
tongues, we (hall takerareto preferve a mind ever ac- 
ceffible to truth, ever open to conviction; a mind 
infinitely more concerned for the benefit of the trade, 
than for the prevalence of our own opinions, or the 
Credit of our performance. 

As we have the honor to be members belonging to 
the trade, we cannot but reflect, with a peculiar degree 
Cfpleafure, that every principle, contained in thole 
chapters, orobfervations, are maintained with plates and 
letters, or drawn from it by juft and neccflary confe- 



n^ THE TJYLOIVS INSTRUCTOR, 

quence amongfl: the trade ; it likewife affords us much 
Satisfaction to obferve that the moft material of the 
fcntiments are adopted by the firft profeffors of the 
trade, to have the firft rate authorities belonging to 
thebufmcfs, is furely no contemptible fupport ; this 
muft give a fanction, whenever our fyftem or theory 
is called in queftion. Perhaps it might be further re- 
marked, that we have not always confined ourfelves to 
the method contained in the London fyftem, nor 
followed their train of thoughts with a fcrupulous regu- 
larity. We would rather refer them to its maxims, for 
their own benefit, than anfwer fuch puerile remarks. 

As we have chofen the path that feemed the mod 
agreeable and inviting, rather than the beaten and 
frequented, if this leads with equal certainty, to the 
o-reat and defirable end. We dare promife ourfelves 

to '• 

an eafy excufe, that method and order, in the principal 
parts of the plans are not wholly neglected — the follow-- 
ing fummary may more fully illuftrate. 

First. The dilTertation on coats, fliows the neceflity 
of following the dictates of our theory, and ferves as an 
illuftration of the principles of the article in queftion. 
It will ferve as a direction or warning to every taylor, by 
which he will be enabled tojudge for himfelf, and perfect 
himfelf in this great attainment ; his proficiency in this, 
we have before faid, will place him quite at hoirie, in, 
every part of the bufmefs.. 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR, 145 

In the abovementioned chapter, the principle plan 
of meafurement is laid down in a clear and perfpicuous 
manner ; together with directions how to proceed. The 
fubject there treated of is a coat for a thin man, without 
lapells : viz. lingle breafted, confequently there is one 
additional meafure taken ; that is, round the hips, or 
below the waift. This is not unreafonable, (though at 
firft it may appear fo) when we confider the object in 
view. Fird, it mull be obferved, that where there are 
no lapells, there are generally two or three holes belovT 
the place where the bottom of them is generally ftruck 
acrofs : confequently, if it be for a thin man, it general- 
ly falls oif from oppolite the breaft down to the hip, 
and theace in a gradual manner to the bottom. But if 
it be for a fat man, this will not be the cafe : for the 
rounding commences at the breaft meafure, and falls in 
again oppolite the hips ; thereby making the waift, as 
it is generally called, the very centre of the prominency 
of the belly. The reft of the meafurements are fo plain 
and eafy to be underftood, that " he who runs may read/* 
and as it is preferable to follow up nature, in all her 
various dimenfions, and under every exifting circum- 
ftance, with regard to the fymmetry and proportions of 
the human body, this pofition is proved to be true by 
poiitive conclulions, and natural evidence. 

The chapter concludes with a ftrict and judicious 
train of reafoning upon the plan of cutting and ftriking 
the marks ; the different lines of which are delineated 
and attefted in the plates, which are there more par- 
ticularly referred to. 



146 THE TAYLOR'S^ INSTRUCTOR. 

We prefume there is not any taylor, who will fail te 
applaud the beauty and perfection of the plates, as foon 
as he has feen and examined them. "We obferved be- 
fore, that nothing of the kind has ever been publiflied, 
'which will bear any comparifon with thofe which we 
have here prefented to the trade j ^nd we again infift 
upon the truth of this alTertion. For the taylor who 
examines thefe plates, (however illiterate or uninformed 
be may be) muft be void of intellect indeed, if he can- 
not cut by them ; cutting exactly in the fame proportion 
as they are on the plate. 

The authors, alfo, in the beginning of this chapter, 
manifelt their good intention, by obferving, that it was 
written for the benefit of the inexperienced. We do 
not mean in this place to recapitulate the arguments, 
that were there adduced ; but merely to enforce the 
maxims by our conclulions, if any arguments fhould 
occur to us, that might lead the mind to clear percep- 
tions of the thing intended. We fhall fay nothing with 
refpect to the double breafted coat. The form, as de- 
lineated in plate II. fig. i and 2, for the bread piece, 
fjg. 3, the back, and fig. 4, a fleeve without the ufual 
feams, is fuch a true refemblance, that it cannot fail 
to ftrike, in a manner peculiarly flrong, the intellectual 
faculties of the mind, and thereby much facilitate the 
labour of the practitioner when cutting out cloth for 
his cuftomer, or himfelf. 



tHE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 14? 

But we infift ftill further, that the maxim laid down 
of the upper part of the coat commanding the fpring 
and bottom of the forepart, was a fecret to every taylor 
we have known, or with whom we have reafoned on this 
fubject on the continent, previous to the publication of 
this work. We do not pretend to find fault with any 
man, for what he does not know in this particular, or 
any thing contained in the whole body of the work. 
But the reafons are fo obvious, and the caufes that pro- 
duce the effects fhown in the ftraight line, from the 
Ihoulder point down to the waift, and bottom upon 
the plaits, fo evident that it is needlefs to fay any thing 
further about it ; for no man of fenfe, who examines 
the fubject, can have the fmalleft ihadow of doubt 
upon it. 

But to proceed further into the fubject we have to 
inlift upon. The arguments upon the ftraight frock, 
orfurtout, are fojudicioufly advanced that a plate on 
the fubject would be fuperfluous, and an additional ex- 
pence to the purchafers of the work. 

From the publication of the prefent edition, the 
editors anticipate no emolument. If it defrays the in- 
cident expenccs, they will not deem their labour loft; 
in as much as they think it probable, that another 
edition will Ihortly be called for ; in which cafe they 
intend not only to give a number of additional plates, 
but likewife to enter more fully into the mhuitice of the 
btilinefs. Perhaps by that time their minds will be 



lis THE TAYLOIVS INSTRUCTOR. 

more matured, and they be enabled to throw fome ad- 
ditional hght upon the points that have been fo ably dif- 
cuffed by the original compilers of the foregoing pages. 

But to return from this digrcffion ; the practical re- 
marks, with refpect to a frock coat being cut as 
ftraii^htas poflible in the forepart fhoulder llrap, are wife 
and judicious ; which muft be obvious to everyone. 
In our own practice, we have obferved, that pitching 
the furtout as far back as a body coat, the fitting of the 
"whole is much difconcerted. 

Further, there is another principle illuftrated in 
this chapter ; that is, the manner in which the back 
ought to be cut in the (kirts. The reafon afligned 
for this purpofe is evident from the nature of things. 
That this may appear more evident, we will make 
the following brief obfervations. Firft, all frock coats 
or furtouts are defigned for covering the limbs as far 
down as they go : to give the foreparts more fpring 
than they ought to have, would reduce the back Ikirts as 
narrow as thofe of a body coat, which would deftroy 
i[S proportion. Secondly, it would prevent its fetting 
to the hips or waift, on account of the overplus of cloth 
put in fpring, and confequently would deftroy the looks 
of the coat. The reference which is made to other 
parts is eafy to be underftood. For inftance, leaving 
fpace that the foreparts cover each other when buttoned, 
three or four inches, and the clearing the fcye are princi- 
pal points, and ought to be attended to, with the greateft: 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. \m 

care, according to the given directions. We havefeen 
coats fpoiled, after having been decently cut, by an 
inexperienced journeymen, by cutting the fcye to bear 
under the arm. So that the more the fyftem is reafon- 
ed upon, the more advantage will reHilt from it. Upon 
the whole, we find old and invariable maxims, with 
new illuftrations ; the experiences of others who have 
gone before us, with new obfervations and improve- 
ments ; fo that it may be faid with propriety, that there 
are few perplexing doubts or intricate cafes, which, at 
any time have occurred to profellbrs of the bufinefs, that 
are not in fome one or other of thefe chapters, very 
judicioufly folved, or cleared up. 

It is hoped, that thofe obfervations on the foregoing 
chapter will fuflice, as there is no plate from which we 
might fuggefl any additional ideas. 

We will now proceed to chapter VI. where we find 
the arguments concifely, and at the fame time, moft 
forcibly difplayed on plate III. For after confidering 
the form of this garment as defcribed, and making a 
practical trial, we found that it completely anfwered 
the intended purpofe. The plan is fo complete, that it 
can fcarcely be mifunderftood. Lay the cloth on the 
double, and the creafe being the centre of the back, or 
what is called the back feam, mark from the top down 
to the waift, and cut it acrofs on the double exactly the 
breadth of half of the back between the hip buttons. 
After that is done, mark in the wheel piece, giving 



13» THE TAYLORS INfiTRUCTOR. 

it the fame form and fpring, as defcribed, from the 
forepart point, at letter e and through the centre of the 
fcye at letter g down to letter h oppoike the waift, where 
it has to cut in for the back fkirt ; and from that to 
letter/on the point for the rife of the forepart. The 
fine drawing is the only particular thing, from letter c 
at the bottom of the wheelpiece to letter e at the top, 
or where it ends, and the fine draw of the back fldrts at 
letter a to the cut for them made at letter b at the waift. 

The neccffity of the other maxims is fo particularly 
explained^ both by precept and example, and fo forcibly 
inculcated, that to give any more reafoning upon the 
fubject would be only recapitulating the whole chapter; 
and perhaps we would leave no room for the learner to 
exercife his talents. The form of this coat is fo fimple 
and eafy, that the learner, by a careful examination of 
the plate, without fludying the theory, as contained in 
the chapter, might cut one of thofe coats, if he were 
fmart and quick of difcernment. 

The next thing that claim.s our attention are regimen- 
tals. Whatever arguments may fuggeft themfelves on 
this plealing part of the bufinefs, we will adduce with 
pleafure. In plate IV. three different forms are de- 
lineated. Infantry, as defcribed in fig. 2, 3, 5, and 7. 

Of this form, in the fmall fcale, as executed on the 
plate, we truly fay, that for juftnefs and proportion of 
parts, we have never feen a better model. And in this 



TffE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 151 

place, we may with propriety obferve, than the man, 
who attends to nothing but making up clothes, will be 
much benefitted ; his ideas will be ftrengthened, and he 
will be put in pofleflion of the method, by which he is to 
proceed in marking off. With refpect to the place of the 
forepart fhoulder ftrap commanding the bottom, al- 
though it be cut upon a different plan of arangement 
from that of a common citizen's coat, yet has its bear- 
ings, as you will perceive by having recourfe to the 
plate, and the draw exactly from the gorge point of the 
forepart fJ'rap down to the waifV, and keeping its own 
to the bottom. This to any one who has read the prac- 
tical obfervations and the maxims treated of in the 
preceeding chapters may feem the more afconifhing; 
yet they have the fame evidence of reafon for their fup- 
port, that the others have, which the authors have in- 
filled in that chapter, when they ftate, that their gar- 
ments were within the pale of the trade, and evidenced 
in the fyftem and theory. But this forrn is alfo referred 
to afterwards, when noticing the cutting of a heavy 
dragoon's coat. Thus it appears that the authors trace 
it by analogy, from the form of its cut, and not of the 
lacing which is on it. 

The next thing upon which we fnall make any obfer- 
vations, or from which we fhall deduce any reafons, is 
that of a navy coat, as defcribed in figures 4 and 6. The 
plan of this garment is by no means new to us: and 
therefore, for the fake of brevity, we (liall make but 
few obfervations upon it. The method of forming the 



152 THE TAYLOR S INSTRUCTOR. 

herring bone holes, and the plan of cutting the breads 
are fo concife and perfpicuous, that any man, although 
he had never before feen any thing of the kind, could in 
a fhorttime become acquainted with the mode of pro- 
ceeding. This reafon atone would fully demonftratc 
its utility. 

We think proper alfo to remark in this place, that 
upon examination of the chapter, we find an omiflion, 
which, however we do not think was intentionally left 
out by the authors. In making the lapell fide, that 
turns out, there are notched holes, wrought exactly half 
the length of thofe which are there defcribed ; and thefe 
latter are generally wrought on both fides. This re- 
mark is only made for the benefit of thofe who are mod 
inexperienced in the bufinefs. 

The reader will perceive, that the back for the navy 
uniform coat is omitted in this place ; which mofl: 
probably arofe from a deficiency of room on the plate. 
It is a matter of little confequence ; as we are informed 
in the fame chapter, that it is always cut exactly in the 
fame manner, as that of a common citizen's coat, which 
may fuffice for this explanation. 

It muft be admitted by every pcrfon, that we do I'lot 
exceed the plain fi:atement of truth, when we afi^ert that 
wc have never leen a truer modle, than defcribed in fig. 
8, 9, loand ii, on Light Dragoons' uniform jackets. 
The mode of cutting the forepart, back and fleeve feams 



THE TAYLOltS INSTRUCTOR. 153 

even to comport with reafon itfelf. The beauty, the 
Ikill, and judgment difplayed in this uniform erects, 
as it were, a barrier againft the attempts of thofe whofe 
weaknefs or ignorance might otherwife induce them to 
oppofe it. The form of this jacket, we have no doubt 
will be very pleafing not only to the cutter, but alfo to 
the journeyman, who may want knowledge to make it. 
They may fee the manner in which the lace is put on^ 
not only on the foreparts, but alfo on the fleeves at the 
cuff and collar. We need not fay any thing further on 
this topic, as things bearing on each other, always fpeak 
for themfelves. 

The views that are given refpecting ladies' habits, 
command particular attention, not only on account of 
the abilities which the authors difplay in the plan of the 
drawing, as defcribed in the plate, but alfo in the 
development of the many principles iniifted on, 
throughout the whole of the chapter. The formation 
of the plate deferves great credit and praife from all 
profeffors of the bulinefs. The plate not only fhows the 
article intended, which is without feams in the back or 
lides, but alfo the more immediate form of thofe with 
the ufual feams, as the line drawn where the fide feam 
ought to be, and particularifed, from where it ought to 
be ftruck with the chalk on the whole cloth, or plainly 
ihow the form of the back, as if it had fea^ms. 



U 



154 THE TA YLOR' S INS TR UCTOJi. 

The forms of the back and forepart Ikirts are alfo 
difcoverable, and as to their formation, are ably exe- 
cuted ; the principles by which the plan of cutting the 
fkirts either way, are fhown and ftated at large in the 
practical obfervations, and the given maxims ftated 
and infilled upon. 

Next in order are fome principles concerning ladies* 
phaeton coats, or thofe which they wear when riding in 
a phaeton or chair ; concerning which, we ' need not 
make any particular remarks in this place, as they are 
not at all ufed on the continent of America. There- 
fore, we will leave the principles therein ftated to the 
reader, as we find them. Indeed the authors them- 
felves feemed inclined to be of opinion, that the fooner 
fome of them are got rid of, the better it would be for 
the trade in general. 

There is every reafon to believe, we hope, that the 
trade has been much benefited by the maxims illuftra- 
tive of the theory and practice on breeches and panta- 
loons. "We do not think that we have afferted this 
without ^ome juft grounds. The more carefully the 
principles laid down are examined, the better will their 
confequences be underftood. They are, in our opinion, 
calculated to make even the unfkilful expert in this 
branch of the bufinefs. We have no hefitation in pro- 
nouncing it 6ne of the m oft cone ife, and at the fame 
time judicious modes by v.'hich a pcrfon whowifties 
information en this fubject, can be put in pofTefTion of 



THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 155 

the rudiments of this branch of the bufinefs. And fur- 
ther we rejoice to find them fo happy in their choice of 
technical phrafes. Throughout the whole, the language 
is fo flrong and nervous, and the reafoning fo juft, 
that every attentive reader mud acknowledge that the 
authors have exerted their utmoft to put him in com- 
plete poffeffion of their ideas on the fubject, and mud 
pronounce them to be adepts in their profeflion. The 
reafonablenefs of the method of meafuring is afcertain- 
ed beyond a doubt : the plan of proceeding when about 
to cut, the falutary directions given with regard to the 
different kinds of fluff that may come into their hands 
through time and practice, and the method to be pur- 
fued in making them by the workmen, form fuch a 
mafs of found judgment and talent, as mull filence the 
caviller, and raife the admiration of the beft informed 
on the fubject. The lines which are drawn acrofs the 
the upper fide thighs, upon the plate of pantaloons, are 
meant to defignate the dilfererit meafurements, as for 
inllance, from letter ^ to letter ion each fide of the 
lines. The rules for knowing the proper place to firike 
the fork are alfo proved, and fully jufiified. , Making a 
deduction of from three to four or five inches, accord- 
ing to the length of the perfon whom you are meafuring 
from the hip bone to the knee; by attending to this, 
the reafoning in the chapter is fully juflified, and the 
caufe Ihown for the deduction in the fide meafiire, and 
the keeping of the finger on the meafure for the length 
at the knee, while with the other hand, the meafure is 
held at the reduction below the hip bone, running i': 
inclining down to the fork and there mark it. 



im THE TAYLOR'S INSTRUCTOR. 

The many reafons, fanctioned by long experience, 
and adapted fully by the authors with refpect to waift- 
coats, have fully juftified them in the plans and form 
defcribed in plate VII. Yet we allb find, that they 
give a very brief fummary of the methed to be purfued 
in making them. 

The aulhors hint, that they have a perfect knowledge 
of what numbers might fay with refpect to their giving 
inflructions for this appendage of drefs, and ftate that 
their fole intention was to inftruct the ignorant. They 
conclude this by introducing a very appropriate quo- 
tation from the facred volume, " The whole need no 
phyfkian i' thereby juftly implying, that it was not for 
thofe who were perfectly acquainted with the bufinefs, 
that this was written. They feel fully fenfible of the 
malevolence of difpofition attending the weak and igno- 
rant minds of many profelTors of the bulinefs, who arc 
unwilling to be inftructed in this fimple, yet necefHiry 
principle. The rules therein ftated are another evidence 
of the diligent and arduous manner in which they have 
handled every point upon which they have inlifted. 
Happy indeed would it be for many who have devoted 
years to the ftudy of the bufinefs, if they would make a 
clofe application to the great and leading features of 
this work, and fee the defign of the authors in displaying 
to the trade in general fuch a fund of information. 

To the judicious and experienced reader, who may 
think proper to pcrufe this book, it will appear, that 



THE TAYLORS INSTRUCTOR. 157 

the facility with which the authors defcribe the diver- 
iified principles and rules of trade, is an evidence of 
the truth of the theory, and of their knowledge. They 
have the faculty of transferring their knowledge, as it 
were, to the readers in the fame manner as if they had 
fully communicated their doubts and ideas to them. 
They have only unfolded the principles that feemed 
mod reafonable in themfelves ; and therefore cannot fail 
to agree with thofe maxims and principles, which are 
believed and fupported by many other profeflers of the 
bufinefs. 



Jcrx iV i S, 



Directions for ihe Binder. 



Plate I. to face page 20. 

Plate II. —-30. 

Plate III. .38. 

Plate IV. 40. 

Plate V. 50. 

Plate VI. 74, 

Plate VII 104, 

Plate VIII. .III. 



• h' I 9 



7 Q 



V 







% -^ 



'V '■> 



i^<;- 






,'^' c " ' « , O 



'-. ^ 



K^O^ 



4- ''''-.. '. 






V s " ' , 



-^/^ ' ft ft *• -A^ \ 1 « /, "<^ 

«, o^ C?" -'' ••■ ' ' 



.-^ .0€^ "ft ■■> ^ 



A^ <^'^''« -^b. 












\0 o. 






. .^ -^M. 



'J- S^ 



.^^^ 






o 0^ 

~^ -7*, 






^^ '-^ s 












<> 'i^ 



'^•^'.^ 












,*^ . 



>? °<. ' H 







,0 o 



/^"^' . 

>. .i"^- * 



x^^'' % 









0^ 



x^V 






^0^,^ ^^■''>r'^ f 






„^^^-.: 



'"'^r^ s \x\ 



\\^^ 



,,v- v^- 



,0 o^ 



:h 






a^ -;> 



^ X>^s-=., 


















.^^■•^- 






i 



mi 






'!!7;)fJ'(i»f 



'^'^'':'^l llil^liiiliiif 










liliP 



i 



